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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Jen Murphy

48 hours in Denver: how to spend a weekend in the mile high city

RINO district

Some used to consider Denver a small town stopover en route to the glamour of Aspen and Vail, but recent years have seen Colorado’s capital emerge as a destination in its own right. Smart city planning has made Denver more accessible than ever. Urban bike trails connect downtown to outer neighbourhoods and the new light rail whisks travellers from Denver International Airport to the buzzy new Union Station hub. Coors Field, home to the Colorado Rockies baseball team, ranks as one of America’s best urban ballparks, and is credited with the renaissance of lower downtown.

At the same time, this meat-and-potatoes town has found its culinary groove. The city has a strong brewing heritage, but that’s now complemented by craft beer makers, star chef restaurants, cool cocktail spots and innovative food markets.

Outside, the mile high city – nicknamed for its elevation one mile above sea level – delivers sunshine 300 days a year, and has one of the biggest urban park systems in the US, plus Rocky Mountain national park is just a day trip away, so you’ll want to pack your hiking boots as well as your cowboy boots.

Plan the ultimate weekend in Denver with this 48 hour itinerary:

Friday afternoon: check in and cocktails

Ramble Hotel, Denver
The Ramble hotel is situated in the arty RiNo area

Check into the hot new Ramble hotel, located in River North art district (RiNo). Once home to great stretches of run-down warehouses, this neighbourhood north of downtown has become one of the city’s hippest areas, packed with food halls, urban wineries and of-the-moment restaurants. New York City cocktail gurus Death & Co are responsible for everything guests imbibe, from the spirits stocked in the minibar to the handcrafted cocktails served in the hotel’s effortlessly cool drinking areas, which include a glamorous lobby bar, an outdoor garden bar, and an intimate, reservations-needed, mezzanine bar. Each of the 50 rooms feels like a Parisian pied-à-terre, decorated with finds from the owner’s travels to France and Morocco.

Friday evening: pan-Latin dim sum
A meal at Super Mega Bien, located next door to the Ramble, is like a whirlwind trip through Latin America. First, there’s the decor – a wild display of Mexican lucha libre wrestling masks and wall-to-wall Brazilian street posters. Then there’s the delicious food, inspired by the flavours of Peru, Cuba, Mexico and Brazil. Family-style dim sum portions, plus large-format drinks, make this a great spot to dine with a group.

Saturday morning: mile-high jog

Horizontal Smith Lake Reflections in Washington Park Denver Colorado
Start your Saturday with a jog around Washington Park. Photograph: milehightraveler/Getty Images/iStockphoto

Join uber-fit locals for a 2.3-mile run around Washington Park. And don’t worry, there’s no shame if you need to stop to catch your breath at 1,600 metres. Reward your efforts with a latte and a buttery kouign-amann cake from nearby Devil’s Food Bakery.

Saturday afternoon: shop local

Annette’s 22845+(2)
Visit Annette for local, farm-to-table dining

Discover Denver’s creative side while browsing the galleries, boutiques and studios in the Art District on Santa Fe. Then head over to Stanley Marketplace, where you’ll find more than 50 independently owned business under one roof. There are countless food options, but try to snag a table for brunch at locally loved, farm-to-table spot Annette, and be sure to ask about the quiche of the day.

Saturday evening: Mother Nature’s music hall
Catching a show at Red Rocks Park & Amphitheatre is on more than a few people’s bucket lists. Thirty minutes from downtown Denver, this acoustically perfect concert venue has been carved out of 70m-year-old sandstone rocks. The 2018 summer line-up includes acts like the Avett Brothers, Yo-Yo Ma and Jackson Browne.

Sunday morning: bike, brunch, brews

5C7A2128Motion
Try Señor Bear for brunch

Denver’s bike-sharing program, called B-cycle, has stations throughout the city. Relatively flat trails, like the Cheery Creek bike path, make for easy urban exploring. Fuel up with brunch at Señor Bear. You can’t go wrong with the chilaquiles or serrano ham-spiked soft scramble; though you can easily overdo it on the bottomless sangria. Denver has demonstrated an ability to brew beers of virtually any style. Brewery-hop by bike and sample the sours at Crooked Stave, saisons at Baere Brewing Co, and the IPAs at Comrade Brewing Co.

Sunday afternoon: the great outdoors

Bear Creek Lake, and the river that feeds it from the nearby mountains.
Bear Lake in Rocky Mountain national park - hike there from Emerald Lake. Photograph: Sparty1711/Getty Images/iStockphoto

Break out your hiking boots and tackle the 355 miles of trails in Rocky Mountain national park. Just 70 miles from Denver, the park makes for a perfect day trip. Out-of-towners can start with the 3.6-mile round-trip hike from Emerald Lake to Bear Lake. It’s great for those still acclimatising to Colorado’s elevation, and affords plenty of Instagram-worthy views.

Sunday evening: a taste of la dolce vita

Denver, Colorado.The Union Station building in Denver, Colorado.
The restored Union Station now houses restaurants and bars. Photograph: Robbie George/Getty Images/National Geographic RF

Head to Union Station, a beautifully restored historic landmark that now houses restaurants, coffee shops, bars and boutiques. Book in advance for dinner at the nearby Tavernetta, a sexy new Italian restaurant from the award-winning talents of James Beard. Request a table at the chef’s counter to watch the chefs at work in the open kitchen. Italian wine fans should be prepared to geek out; the list here runs long and is updated weekly by wine director Carlin Karr. And if you’re heading out after dinner, the downtown train is – conveniently – only steps away.

United Airlines offers a seasonal, non-stop service from London Heathrow to Denver on the Boeing 787 Dreamliner – complete with high-tech cabin lighting and smoother ride technology, plus flat-bed seats in Polaris business class. Learn more at united.com

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