Brussels is everything that people least expect from its image as the stuffy, bureaucratic capital of Europe. The reality is a fun, cosmopolitan, quirky, creative, fashionable city. Whether eating out, trawling the bars and clubs, shopping or culture, a non-stop, jam-packed weekend awaits visitors here – plus, it’s just under two hours from London by Eurostar.
Day one
Breakfast in an arty neighbourhood
Brussels is a very walkable city, but it is also well-served by buses, the metro network and trams. Begin your stay with a lazy breakfast of waffles and bacon at Walvis, part local neighbourhood hangout, part hip place to be seen. Walvis sits on the frontier of two very different quarters: the waterside Kanal, where once-abandoned industrial spaces are now thriving as artists’ studios; and Sainte-Catherine, heart of the city’s fashion world. Kanal now attracts even more visitors since the old Citroën factory was transformed into an immense offshoot of France’s Centre Pompidou in May, with a dynamic programme of exhibitions, performances and installations.
Shop independent boutiques and enjoy street food
Begin a tour of Sainte-Catherine along Rue Antoine Dansaert, a grand boulevard lined with irresistible boutiques: Joya Brussels showcases Aurore de Heusch’s handmade jewellery; Aleksandra Paskowska’s funky convertible clothes are displayed at Y-Dress, while Hoet has to-die-for designer glasses. For a break, pop in for a glass of Baby Lone, brewed with recycled bread, at Brussels Beer Project, the vanguard of the booming craft beer revolution here. Just by Sainte-Catherine church, join the lunch crowds teeming around Mer du Nord, a fishmonger street stall serving creamy shrimp croquettes, seared scallops, razor clams and tuna steaks. Expect a long wait, but it is well worth it. If it feels like you have been rushing around all morning, cross the road and take the weight off your feet for a while at Monk – a great bar loved by locals.
See cool comics, quirky street art and shop for vintage gems
In Belgium, the humble comic strip is an art form, and kids and adults alike make a beeline for the Comics Art Museum, to gaze upon a kaleidoscope of original drawings, sculptures and photos. Housed in a splendid 1905 building by art nouveau master architect Victor Horta, the stars of the show are local favourites – Hergé’s Tintin, the Smurfs and Lucky Luke. Afterwards, everyone heads off armed with a map to track down the 60 distinctive wall murals dotted around town. Along the way, you’ll encounter a goldmine of vintage boutiques, with everything from glitzy Chanel sunglasses to stylish Dries van Noten jackets making an appearance. Key addresses to track down are psychedelic Episode, hat specialist Gabriele Vintage and haute-couture experts Les Enfants d’Edouard. Before dinner, immerse yourself in booze-based local heritage with a Trappist ale in a traditional “estaminet” bar – either the Toone, which has its own puppet theatre, or the historic A La Mort Subite or “Sudden Death”, unchanged since it opened more than a century ago.
Check out the foodie scene
For dinner, head to the nearby Rue de Flandre, where two brilliant but contrasting restaurants are almost adjacent. Viva M’Boma serves classic Bruxellois cuisine that you will find nowhere else. Nose-to-tail foodies will love its braised sweetbreads, and there are also dishes for the more squeamish carnivore. At San it’s another world. Michelin-starred Korean-Belgian chef Sang-Hoon serves up single-bowl dishes, mixing flavours such as bonito with perilla mousse, and aubergine and mussels, plus vegan options based on seasonal vegetables such as beetroot and asparagus. After dinner, walk over to the burlesque Madame Moustache dance club or grab a cab to the mythical Fuse – the underground home of Belgian techno, still packed out till dawn on Saturdays.
Day two
Browse antique markets and enjoy Brussels comfort food
Banish Sunday morning hangovers with a glass of Belgian bubbly and North Sea oysters at one of the food trucks in the popular Flagey market, then pick up a Villo city bike and cycle over to the palatial Grand Sablon square, to peruse the upscale antiques stands. Next, take a foodie break, either at Marcolini, a mecca for chocolate-lovers, or with a “cornet de frites” smothered with mayonnaise – never ask for vinegar – at the “fritkot” by Notre-Dame de la Chapelle. Suitably sustained, walk up Rue Blaes, a paradise of bric-a-brac stores, to arrive at the historic Place du Jeu de Balle, one of Europe’s oldest flea markets – totally chaotic, but filled with bargains for the patient sifter. There must be a dozen bars encircling the market, but the one to choose is La Brocante, a genuine boozer with live jazz and inexpensive tasty lunch specials such as “stoemp”, a Brussels take on sausages and mash, and “chicons gratin”, crunchy endives and grilled melted cheese.
Hit the museum trail
When it comes to museums, Brussels again can be classic or quirky. The Mont des Arts neighbourhood boasts world-class cultural institutions such as the Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium, which showcase the masters from this part of Europe, from Brueghel and Bosch to Rubens and van Dyck, and the adjoining Magritte Museum, which has an unparalleled collection of the famed Belgian surrealist painter’s work. Just down the road, the art deco Bozar hosts everything from temporary exhibitions, such as Beyond Klimt, to celebrations of cinema and architecture. But the museum that will really take your breath away is out in the Schaerbeek neighbourhood. Train World boasts more than 20 historic locomotives, set in immense railway workshops – it’s more movie set than museum.
Have an Instagram-worthy dinner
Finish your culture-packed tour of Brussels with a unique dinner via the Tram Experience. Arrive at the iconic Palais de Justice, and at 7pm an ancient yellow tram trundles up. So far, so normal. But this is no ordinary tram – it’s a mobile restaurant. A memorable two-hour journey around the city ensues, with chefs gamely cooking in a tiny kitchen and waiters weaving up and down the aisles serving up a gourmet seven-course meal. Service and succour like this doesn’t come cheap, but it’s an experience that will stay with you forever.
Getting there
Eurostar’s frequent train service goes direct from London St Pancras International to Brussels-Midi/Zuid in as little as 1hr 48mins, with up to 10 trains a day.
