The internet has officially entered its ‘Skinification of Hair’ era. This booming beauty philosophy treats your scalp like an extension of your face — applying the same clinical principles, premium ingredients, and multi-step routines to your head. And honestly? It makes perfect sense. We’ve got our seven-step skincare routines down to a fine art, so it’s time to extend that same energy to our scalps, especially when winter weather hits.
For decades, the standard approach was trying to fix hair by treating the dead strands outside our heads. Now, we know better: healthy hair requires a scalp-to-tip strategy. The crucial first step outside of the shower? A great scalp serum.
What exactly are scalp serums?
Think of scalp serums like your favourite face serums: you need to layer, lather, and massage them into the skin to see the best results. They come in a range of formulations depending on what you want to achieve, explains Rita Silva, The Ordinary’s Senior Manager, Scientific Communications & Brand Engagement. Some are designed to hydrate and nourish the scalp, while others target hair density at the root for increased hair volume.
If your focus is scalp dryness, Rita recommends looking for serums containing hydrating molecules such as natural moisturising factors, squalane, hyaluronic acid, and other hydrating ingredients to help restore hydration to a dry scalp.
But if hair density is your focus, she recommends a formula containing caffeine. “Caffeine is the most widely found ingredient in serums. However, peptides and other plant-derived extracts can also provide effective results.”
Scalp Serum vs. Hair Oil: What’s the difference?
It’s easy to confuse the two, but they serve entirely different purposes. Hair oils and masks mainly work on the strands themselves, explains Rita. “Helping them look smoother and healthier, and can also reduce breakage or offer heat protection depending on the formula.”
Scalp serums, on the other hand, are designed to target the skin directly. “Helping to energise scalp skin or boost scalp hydration to support healthy-looking hair,” she says.
Why is my scalp so dry and flaky in winter?
Your scalp is skin, meaning it’s highly vulnerable to seasonal shifts. During winter, cold outdoor temperatures combined with artificial indoor heating drastically lower relative humidity, while high barometric pressure forces moisture right out of the epidermis.
“This can dehydrate the skin, slow down its barrier recovery, deplete natural oils (sebum) and lipids, and reduce the skin’s natural exfoliation (which highly depends on the skin’s water content to operate normally), resulting in a buildup of dry flakes. A hydrating scalp serum can help alleviate this flakiness by replenishing lost moisture and supporting the compromised skin barrier,” says Rita.
Do scalp serums actually help with hair growth and thinning?
When it comes to biological growth, Australian standards are strict. In Australia, only medications can actively promote new hair growth, explains Rita. “Cosmetics are not permitted to claim that they physiologically promote new hair growth, but they can improve the appearance of thinning hair by preventing breakage, or make hair strands appear thicker for a denser look.”
How (and when) do I apply it? (And will it make my hair greasy?)
Like any good beauty routine, consistency is key. Rita recommends massaging a few drops of hair serum thoroughly into a clean, dry scalp once daily, ideally at bedtime.
As for the dreaded greasiness? Some formulas can leave a bit of residue, so it’s best to use them exclusively at night until you see how the formulation interacts with your specific hair type.
Dandruff vs. Dry Scalp: Is there actually a difference?
For the longest time, many of us assumed a dry scalp and dandruff were the exact same thing. Turns out, they are same-same, but entirely different. While both result in annoying visible flakes, they are triggered by completely different root causes, explains Rita.
“A dry scalp is associated with an imbalance in scalp skin hydration, which impairs normal exfoliation and leads to a buildup of dead skin cells that will eventually shed as small white flakes,” she says.
“In contrast, dandruff is a non-contagious inflammatory condition driven by Malassezia, a microscopic yeast that lives on the scalp. It feeds on scalp oils and breaks them down into oleic acid. In sensitive individuals, this byproduct sparks an immune system reaction that rapidly accelerates skin cell turnover, causing dead skin cells to clump together and shed as the visible white or yellowish flakes known as dandruff.”
The good news? Both dry scalp and dandruff can be prevented with targeted topical cosmetics. “A dry scalp can be kept at bay by utilising hydrating formulations like our Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA for Scalp ($24.40), or exfoliating products that have been studied for their ability to reduce scalp dryness, like our Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toner ($14.20).”
Similarly, she explained that dandruff can be prevented through proper shampooing. Just look for a formula that contains a preventive ingredient such as piroctone olamine. Alternatively, you could use an exfoliating product containing ingredients like salicylic acid or glycolic acid.
That said, since dandruff is a medical condition, treatment of severe cases might require a therapeutic good or medicine containing dandruff treatment ingredients, such as selenium sulfide, ketoconazole, or high concentrations of coal tar.
Shop The Best Hydrating Scalp Serums
Shop The Best Serums For Hair Growth & Density
Pro-Tip: If you suffer from both a dry scalp and hair loss, always prioritise hydration first. A dry, inflamed scalp cannot effectively absorb or utilise hair growth peptides. Get the skin barrier healthy, and the growth will follow.
Here’s what TikTok has to say about some of our recommended scalp serums.
The Ordinary:
@adesolajess This serum has single handedly improved my scalp health. 10/10 recommend. @The Ordinary #naturalhair #haircare #type4hair #afrohair #scalpcare
♬ original sound – Jessie🎀|Books & Hair📚💇🏽♀️
@urhotnonnaa gotta let the girlies know #hairtok #haircare #hairgrowth #hairhealth #haircarejourney @The Ordinary
♬ original sound – urhotnonnaa
Bouf:
@kenziejeanhair Replying to @Christina Waite94 BOUF HAIR GROWTH TONIC UPDATE #review #productreview #boufhaircare #scalphealth #hairgrowthtips
♬ Elevator Music – Bohoman
@jillie_clarkk 5 week @boufhaircare update! Reminder this is not paid or gifted!! 🧡❤️ #boufhaircare #bouf #hairgrowth #hairjourney
♬ original sound – Jillie 🦋
Typebae:
@wendyomo_ 3 month in-depth review of the @TYPEBEA overnight boosting peptide ✨ I wanted to love this but didn’t see noticeable results. Let me know if there are any other hair serums I should try out! #scalpserum #hairgrowth #hairgrowthjourney #typebea #hairserum #haircare
♬ Yacht Club – MusicBox
@ritaora My hair serum literally is my saviour @TYPEBEA ps I’m jet lagged
♬ original sound – Rita Ora
Lead image: Wendyomo_ TikTok / The Ordinary / Bouf Haircare / Typebae
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