The world’s love affair with Dubrovnik shows no sign of slowing down. Yes, Croatia’s biggest tourist attraction is incredibly busy, but things should improve this summer when a new cap on cruise ships comes into effect. And about time too.
For within its medieval and Renaissance walls are shiny marble streets of white stone houses and sprawling cafe terraces – all the more attractive once the cruise crowds have gone for the day. In the meantime, hit the beaches of Lapad and Babin Kuk north of the Old Town, where life moves at an agreeably slower pace.
Best for beaches: Valamar Dubrovnik President
Neighbourhood: Babin Kuk
Although it was built in the 1970s, this huge, sleek white five-star has been thoroughly modernised and has its own large stretch of pebbly beach. You also get superb sunsets and views of the Elaphiti Islands from the vast gardens, outdoor pool and most of the rooms. Just outside is the bus that takes you to the Old Town in 15-20 minutes, and you’re right by the footpath that curves around the peninsula past Cava and Copacabana beaches.
Doubles from €140
valamar.com
Best for romance: Villa Orsula
Neighbourhood: Ploče
This art deco villa is in a heavenly spot – overlooking the Adriatic, with the island of Lokrum in front and Dubrovnik’s city walls to the right; what a view from the sunloungers around the outdoor pool and the stone bathing platform. With only 13 rooms, the feeling is one of intimacy and discreet luxury – and it’s only a 10-minute walk from the Ploče Gate into the Old Town. Book one of the rooms with a stone balcony facing the sea.
Doubles from €450, including airport transfers
adriaticluxuryhotels.com
Best for ferry day trips: Bokun Guesthouse
Neighbourhood: Gruž
Set in a 400-year-old stone house, this family-run guesthouse is only a 10-minute bus ride to the Old Town and just yards away from the best food market in Dubrovnik. Gruž is also the place to catch ferries to nearby islands. Bokun really does feel as if you’re staying in someone’s house, with an adorable garden, a pool, and rooms and apartments kept cool with exposed stone walls.
Doubles from €90
bokun-guesthouse.com
Best for arty vibes: Prijeko Palace
Neighbourhood: Old Town
Artists have been let loose on the nine rooms in Prijeko Palace and allowed free rein in the interior design. The result is sheer stylish fun in this 500-year-old stone palace, with idiosyncratic yet comfortable interiors. You also get gorgeous views of the Old Town from the roof terrace. The hotel’s restaurant, Stara Loza, stands out among the more touristy offerings along Prijeko Street, which runs parallel to the Old Town’s main thoroughfare, Stradun.
Doubles from €117
prijekopalace.com
Best for boutique chic: Saint Joseph’s
Neighbourhood: Old Town
There are only six suites in this exquisite boutique hotel in a 16th-century building on a quiet lane in the Old Town. Kitted out in classy French country style, the spacious suites all have kitchenettes if you want to do some light cooking. A sumptuous room-service breakfast is all part of the deal, and the Anglo-Croatian couple running the hotel are full of advice and tips, adding to the delightful feeling of being cocooned in utter comfort.
Doubles from €354
stjosephs.hr
Best for views: Grand Villa Argentina
Neighbourhood: Ploče
Like its neighbour Villa Orsula, the larger and more affordable Grand Villa Argentina has sublime views of the walled Old Town from its extensive gardens, pool and bathing platforms. Try to book one of the sea-facing rooms with a beautiful stone balcony for that classic Adriatic vista. There’s also a well-equipped spa with an indoor pool and a whirlpool bath.
Doubles from €149
adriaticluxuryhotels.com
Best for families: Hotel Dubrovnik Palace
Neighbourhood: Lapad
This huge modern hotel sits on its own peninsula near the beaches of Lapad, with its outdoor pools, bathing platforms, tennis court and gardens tumbling down the hillside towards the Adriatic. Behind are the woods and forest trails of Velika and Mala Petka Forest Park, and there’s a scuba diving centre as well as a sea-view spa. The hotel gives off a lovely sensation of being away from it all, yet the bus to the Old Town is right outside the front entrance.
Doubles from €158
adriaticluxuryhotels.com
Best for friendly charm: Fresh* Sheets Kathedral
Neighbourhood: Old Town
Run by a genial Croatian-Canadian couple, this six-room guesthouse is in the thick of the Old Town, with the cathedral on one side and the Gundulićeva food market on the other. You’ll get a warm welcome and loads of tips on what to do in the city, and the kitchen is available all day for endless cups of coffee and tea. Rooms have an airy, neutral design, and there’s also one with a kitchenette if you want to make use of the fresh produce from the market down below.
Doubles from €128
freshsheetskathedral.com
Best for laid-back luxury: Hotel Kazbek
Neighbourhood: Lapad
Facing Gruž harbour, this handsome 16th-century stone villa offers chilled-out luxury behind its stone walls. Its 13 rooms hover around the garden terraces and inviting pool, and hark back to the 19th century with brocade fabrics and dark wood. When you’re not dining in the stone vaulted restaurant, you can take in the sea views from the terrace. If you fancy a day trip to the nearby islands, take advantage of the hotel’s speedboat, which is moored just out front in the harbour. You’re also in a good spot to take the footpath to Copacabana Beach or hop on the bus into the Old Town.
Doubles from €118
kazbekdubrovnik.com
Best for convenient location: Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik
Neighbourhood: Pile
You can see why the Hilton is an old favourite among repeat visitors: it’s just outside the Pile Gate – one of the two entrances to the Old Town – yet it’s comfortably away from the crowds. There’s a wonderfully grand look to this palatial 19th-century hotel, with its stately cocktail bar and spacious garden terrace, as well as a spa with an indoor pool. If you don’t get a room with a balcony, try for one on the upper floors for a sea view.
Doubles from €153
hilton.com
