“There’s nothing better than summer hosting. It means good weather — mostly — and great company,” says Glassette co-founder Laura Jackson.
But before you scrub down that grill and load up on multipacks of burgers, hold fire. Controversially (perhaps), food writer Rosie Kellett believes: “Unless you’re camping, steer clear of the BBQ. Everyone gets it wrong — people put things on when it’s not hot enough and then there’s a worry about food being cooked properly. ”
As Skye Gyngell, chef-proprietor of Spring and culinary director at Heckfield Place, points out, outdoor entertaining should be all about simplicity.
“The focus should be on nature and ease, rather than perfection. You don’t need a complicated menu — just a few beautiful things served generously,” she says.
But how to go about feeding a dozen people or more without fretting — or spending the whole time in the actual kitchen? Here, some of London’s finest hosts tell us how they make it all happen without so much as breaking a sweat.
Setting a (welcoming) scene
“It’s all about creating an inviting atmosphere that feels considered but not overdone,” say Lucy Carr-Ellison and Jemima Jones of Tart London on getting an outside space looking ship-shape.
“Think in zones: a drinks corner with a styled tray or bar, a laid-back seating area with rugs and cushions, and maybe a fire pit.”
For Fiona Leahy, the queen of tablescaping, it’s all about candles — so stock up on taper styles and tea lights and plenty of matches.
“Lighting is my everything for outdoor dining. I always use candles within hurricane glass which protect candlelight from the wind. If you have nothing but candlelight and a big stretch of table, then it’s all good!” she says.
Flowers lend an artful touch but don’t overthink it: channel the undone elegance of the legendary Towpath café, where meadow-style cuttings are plonked in jam jars.
Or raid your supermarket for fresh pots of basil and rosemary and rehome them in terracotta pots. “They won’t last forever — but they’re cheap, look nice and smell amazing,” says Charlie Karlsen, co-founder of luxury caterer Opus 11, who also rates a pile of citrus fruits (with leaves attached) stacked into a pedestal bowl for easy decoration.
Sophie Edwards, co-owner of Villa Bologna Pottery, takes her cues from summers on Malta, favouring colourful tablecloths and playing with different heights on the table (this is good as it actually saves space — think a cake stand for displaying cured meats etc…). “I never worry about being too coordinated,” she says.
Cutting it fine? India Holmes, creative director of Pelican House, advises prepping your area before the food: “You don’t want to be running around laying the table when people are arriving — that would give me a panic attack! It is much easier to chat to guests in the kitchen while you finish off the food.”
What to drink?
“Having a drink to put in someone’s hand as soon as they arrive is helpful for breaking the ice,” says Lori Zimring De Mori of Towpath café.
Her co-founder Laura creates a drinks station where guests can help themselves to large ice cubes and fresh garnishes such as chillies or cherries.
“This means you can be present with your guests rather than managing every detail. It can also become a hub for conversation,” she says.
The Tart team pre-make a good-looking cocktail, such as a seasonal spritz or a jug of wild margaritas (margs but with a seasonal twist), garnished and ready in the fridge.
For his recent birthday party in his backyard, Karlsen had a mixologist on hand to make lemon and basil martinis alongside a tequila and champagne spritz for a fun pivot away from gin. A drinks trolley added to the party mood.
The Tart girls have taken to making their own cordials, which get topped up with ice, soda and mint, or shaken with vodka and ice.
Though Karlsen has fatigue of a particular variety: “Elderflower is done, I’m so bored of it!” he laughs, preferring a refreshing, homemade lemonade.
What’s cooking?
Keen to impress your guests by cooking over fire? Luke Holder, chef director at Hartnett Holder & Co, is heading up the Forest Kitchen at luxe hotel Lime Wood this summer and favours making a whole fish.
“Take a sea bass grilled over white-hot embers, finish with a good drizzle of olive oil, a squeeze of lemon, and you’ve got a real showstopper.
“Serve it with a tomato risotto and a mustardy salad. It’s low-fuss, high-flavour cooking that lets you focus on what really matters — good food and good company,” he says.
Brat co-owner Tomos Parry agrees: “I use my fish cages for grilling a lot at this time of year. They allow you to have full control while turning and basting your fish over the fire.” He’s also into grilling fruit, such as peaches, to add to a cured ham and almond salad.
If pre-cooking is more your bag, look up Kellett’s recipe for a one-tray spatchcock chicken cooked over tomatoes with lemon paprika butter, or a filo pastry pie filled with greens.
“You can eat them at room temperature or easily serve them up in the park,” says the pro.
Puff pastry will never let you down, and Jackson’s anchovy twists (see her Art of Hosting series for the full recipe) deliver salty flakiness that’s ideal for soaking-up booze. “I’ve made them more times than I can count, and they never fail to impress,” she attests.
Grazing stations are still ideal and look impressive
Karlsen recently used mirrored tiles (bought inexpensively on Amazon) to elevate charcuterie, crackers and nuts. “We used alternating tiles with a linen napkin underneath,” he explains.
Not sure of the head count? Don’t stress; the Tart girls say you can’t go wrong with a big pot of something, such as a slow-cooked lamb or a summery pasta, which can stretch effortlessly.
And if your cousin unexpectedly brings more of her cousins along, bulk out what’s on offer with vegetables and olives.
Gyngell makes a case for hanging up your apron altogether: “Start with a really good crusty bread and then add things like tins of top-quality anchovies; ripe, plump tomatoes — Vesuvio or Berner Rose are my favourites — sliced with some sea salt and a drizzle of olive oil.
“One stand-out cheese — something soft and ripe, like St Tola — perfectly ripe peaches and a big bowl of cherries,” she says.
The soundtrack to it all
If it feels like there’s something missing then it’s bound to be music. Leahy’s portable Block Rocker Plus may not be as aesthetically-pleasing as her place settings, but “it’s like a mini speaker on steroids and adds such a vibe”.
The Tart girls plan their playlists as carefully as the food: “Make sure it shifts in tone from something upbeat and energetic early on, to more mellow and atmospheric as the evening progresses.”
And if the weather turns bad…
“Always have a Plan B. Have throws, umbrellas and indoor spillover space at the ready,” say Carr-Ellison and Jones.
This is where parasols come in: Leahy loves them because not only do they lend a garden a Mediterranean feel, a couple thrown together can provide shelter from a blast of rain.
So stop refreshing that weather app and remember, as the Tart duo sagely advise: “It’s not about perfection; it’s about keeping the party going, even when the heavens open!”
