Get all your news in one place.
100’s of premium titles.
One app.
Start reading
Livingetc
Livingetc
Gilda Bruno

Yes, London Is Having a Restaurant Merchandise Moment — And It Says Everything About How We Eat Now

A five-part image, with a larger square at the center and four smaller one all around it, is filled with restaurant merchandise images, including a photograph of a man drinking wine while staring at a beige tote bag with a black pig drawn on it, snacks-themed accessories, a yellow bread bag, a poster, a T-shirt, and a tote bag, tea tin, and an incense set.

It's been 15 months since I joined Livingetc as their in-house lifestyle guru, gradually eating my way into London's culinary scene with the sole excuse of wanting to check out the interiors of its most coveted restaurants up close — with many indulgent feasts suddenly justifiable as, erhm, that's right, research.

I could spend hours outlining what a little bit of on-the-ground action has taught me about fine dining etiquette (notably, the importance of placing the napkin on your lap ahead of the meal and, most crucially, of paying attention not to drop it on the floor halfway through it as booze begins to play its tricks; that of keeping your voice low to remain discreet, and letting the waiting staff clear the tables themselves, resisting the urge to help out via the muscle memory from my hospitality past). But there is another thought I simply can't seem to be able to shake off.

How have so many of the coolest gastronomic destinations in the Big Smoke suddenly become a place not only to eat, but also to... shop? And how come countless examples of the best restaurant merchandise to buy in London are practically all I can see during my guilty doomscrolling sessions?

Inside the London Restaurant Merchandise Frenzy — A Matter of Belonging

To celebrate the Year of the Dragon, last year, London's favorite hospitality group BAO partnered with cult concept store Dover Street Market on the release of an exclusive restaurant merchandise collection. (Image credit: Courtesy of BAO and Dover Street Market)
During a special pop-up at the address, BAO brought Carhartt-designed BAO T-shirts, along with Simone Rocha, SHUSHU/TONG, and Deathmask-conceived bags, shoes, and hats, and more unique BAO merch. (Image credit: Courtesy of BAO and Dover Street Market)

It is something my colleagues and I have been discussing for months now, starting from the moment we first came across the instantly sold out — and now, luckily, back in stock — Jolene bread bag this summer, the ultimate sustainable gift for all your sourdough-addicted East London friends. Not that restaurant merchandise is anything necessarily new in the capital.

A year before launching as a street food pop-up in Hackney back in 2013, and three years ahead of the opening of its debut Soho outpost, cult Taiwanese restaurant group BAO's creative director and co-founder, Erchen Chang, made the family-owned concept instantly recognizable thanks to her iconic artwork of a lonely man devouring a bao on his own, which would later appear on many of the eatery's tongue-in-cheek restaurant merchandise items.

With so many of the hard and impossible-to-book eateries in the capital now selling themed clothing and homeware, including the ever-loved Jolene, St. JOHN, Café Deco, and Dishoom, the question isn't just which eatery are you, but why are foodie accessories suddenly ... everywhere?

To us, the sudden race for the best restaurant merchandise to buy in London conceals more than you'd think at first sight. Similarly to what we said about the rise of resortcore, or a mindset shift that now sees us embrace travel not just during or through temporary vacations, but as a 360-degree lifestyle spilling into our clothing, hobbies, and wellness choices, London restaurant merchandise, too, is about manifesting a sense of identity.

And so, where devoted South East Londoners are likely to style a Forza Wine T-shirt with one of its grapy caps or get their hands on a Lai Rai ashtray, Dalston-based bon vivants will stick to their trusted Mangal II's or wine bar Oranji's shoppable edits, while north-of-the-river gourmands might prefer Half Cut Market's.

Whether you are a London restaurant merchandise fan or, instead, find the idea of endorsing your favorite foodie addresses so blatantly a little excessive, one thing is for certain: in the era of small plates eateries, restaurant merchandise is the divisive style signifier that shows we're still craving for more — playfulness, connections, and belonging. It is a trend that lets us bring the spirited atmosphere of our go-to destinations home, or even better, wherever we go. Shop our latest obsessions below.

It isn't a secret that tote bags have become the most ubiquitous of merchandise buys... (Image credit: Courtesy of St. JOHN)
but St. JOHN's one still manages to hit different, serving as your aesthetic, monochromatic wine and bread bag. (Image credit: Courtesy of St. JOHN)

The Best Restaurant Merchandise to Buy in London

Sign up to read this article
Read news from 100’s of titles, curated specifically for you.
Already a member? Sign in here
Related Stories
Top stories on inkl right now
Our Picks
Fourteen days free
Download the app
One app. One membership.
100+ trusted global sources.