The sky is the colour of slate but, as I turn the final corner of a winding country lane, a shot of sunlight breaks through to illuminate the gamut of green surrounding me. This is an appropriate beacon for my arrival at Monart, a destination spa set in its own 100 acres of woodland in an area aptly named "the Still". The waiter tells me later as I sit on the terrace at 8pm, which is almost unheard of in Ireland, that the name is in reference to the area having its own unique microclimate – although I have a sneaking suspicion it has more to do with a certain local whiskey maker who went by the name of Jameson.
Built around an imposing Georgian house, the design of the modern wings uses wood, steel and glass to striking effect – in contrast to, but not in conflict with, the original building. It means you get the best of the old and the new – you can sit and sip earl grey in the old library flicking through a dusty tome, or you can order a cosmopolitan on the wooden terrace, wrapped in one of the spa's ultra-soft blankets and watch the decorative lights dancing on the water.
The place was designed by a husband and wife team, Stephen and Patricia Carr – he's the architect, she's the interior designer – and they took their inspiration from Europe, concentrating on the elemental, ensuring the design reflected its unique woodland setting. Certainly when you are sat in the outside wooden sauna looking across the changing colours of the landscape you could be in Norway or Sweden rather than the sunny south-east of Ireland.
The spa's calling card is the thermal suite, which comprises nine different rooms to bake, sweat and stew in. Starting with the caldarium, a dry room at body temperature that helps you acclimatise, you then work your way through others in whatever order you like. There's a salt grotto, which emits a saline steam – great if, like me, you've just given up the fags – although it does feel a bit like swimming in the sea with your eyes open, in fact, best to keep them closed and let the salt stimulate the rest of your system. I then braved the showers – four different kinds, some hot, some cold, and they refuse to tell you which is which – I'm glad there weren't many people around to hear my squeals as jets of icy water pulverised my body. The steam room was scented with eucalyptus oil and the hydrotherapy pool had some fantastically powerful jets to massage your back and shoulders, while all around were heated beds to lie on, (I didn't dare go into the room marked "private mud baths").
There is also the full range of spa treatments, including facials , dry flotation, hammam treatments – which are normal treatments conducted in 100% humidity on a warm plinth, detox and aromatherapy baths and more specialised eye, lip and bust treatments, reiki and reflexology. Men are catered for too, although they may want to pass on the French manicure.
There is a fluffy white bathrobe-and-slippers policy, which means that everyone looks like they are in some brochure for the blissed out: there's someone in a robe reclining on a lounger with a book, and look, over there, there's another person in a robe idly tossing twigs into the river. Best just to join in and enjoy the pleasure of walking outside in your slippers without getting told off.
If you tire of floating around, then you can don a jacket and pair of boots, conveniently supplied by reception, and take to the "gallops" – a two-mile walk around the grounds. There is also a gym to ensure you make room for dinner.
The great attraction of this place is that it doesn't take itself too seriously – this isn't rehab where you're going to be put on a gruelling diet and be admonished for alcohol consumption. This is a place for relaxation and whether you're going to achieve that with foie gras and brandy or figs and berocca, you'll be well catered for. Dining options include: the spa cafe, the garden lounge, the drawing room and the fine dining restaurant serving locally sourced produce exquisitely prepared. Dress-up, dress-down, the choice is yours.
The rooms are spacious and smart, with soft down duvets, high thread-count sheets and little balconies overlooking the woods, so you can take full advantage of that microclimate.
Monart, Enniscorthy: monart.ie
More spas and ways to relax
Inchydoney Island Lodge and Spa, Clonakilty, West Cork
00353-238833143 inchydoneyisland.com
You can't beat the location of this spa, with relaxation rooms overlooking two sandy beaches in west Cork and situated as it is above the luxurious Inchydoney lodge, a boutique hotel that has paid attention to every last detail, from the roaring fires in the reception to the private balconies in the rooms. The unique feature is an indoor seawater pool and a range of thalasso therapy treatments, harnessing the regenerative effects of sea algae. You can also have proper pamper treatments, such as the tropical ritual, which involves a head-to-toe scrub in coconut followed by being wrapped in the stuff and then massaged in coconut oil – if you didn't feel like you were on holiday before, then you will after this. And for the ultimate princess treatment you can follow Cleopatra's advice and bathe in milk
Innisfallen Health and Beauty Rooms, The Malton, Killlarney, Co. Kerry
00353–646638000
The Malton is an imposing Victorian hotel in the middle of Killarney's town centre. It was one of the first hotels when the railway opened up this area to tourism 150 years ago. However, tucked into one of its wings is the Innisfallen spa, with its ultra-modern treatments . Reasonably priced, with an aromatic facial at about £55 and a hot-stone massage for £65
The Spa at the Maryborough hotel, Douglas, Cork
00353-214365555
Just a short drive out of the city, this spa has 300-year-old woods as its garden. It is attached to the Maryborough, a converted country house hotel, which is a favourite spot for local weddings. Friendly Irish girls give Espa treatments, starting at £45 for an Indian head massage.
The g hotel, Galway
00353-91865200, theghotel.ie
A minimalist spa in an uber-trendy design hotel. The thermal suite includes a crystal steam room, rock sauna and vitality room. Espa treatments start from about £50 for a full body salt and oil scrub
Slieve Donard Resort and Spa hotel, Co. Down
00353-2760223
passaddhi.comHastingsHotels.com/SlieveDonard
Nestling at the foot of the Mourne mountains and commanding panoramic views of the County Down coastline, this hotel and spa is set among six acres of private grounds. If you take a walk through the grounds of the hotel you'll find yourself on one of the world's top golf courses, Royal County Down, or if you prefer you can simply stroll along golden sands swept by bracing sea breezes.
ANOTHER WAY TO RELAX IN IRELAND
Whale-watching, Baltimore, West Cork,
00353-861200027 whalewatchwestcork.com
Characterful Nic Slocum, who's been watching marine mammals off the Irish coast for 25 years, can take you out in his boat to see fin, minke or humpback whales, basking sharks, harbour porpoises and, if you are lucky, a bottlenose dolphin or two. Out on Slocum's catamaran, navigating the waters between the Cork coast and the isolated island of Cape Clear you can let all your worldly worries slip away.
Ireland East - what's on
27-30 August
Guinness 15th International Bluegrass Festival, Dunmore East
Ireland's largest free music festival with international and Irish bluegrass acts
18-20 September
Graiguenamanagh Town of Books festival, Co. Kilkenny
For one weekend, this riverside town becomes a book market. From rare antique books to bargain bin paperbacks, there's a book for every shelf and wallet. The weekend also features music, entertainment and a food and craft market on the Sunday.
9-11 October
Nire Valley Walking Festival
This promises to be a weekend of spectacular walking, great talking and a feast of traditional music, singing and dancing. Organised by Marry Wall, owner of Hanora's Cottage a family run B&B hidden away in the wilds of the Comeragh mountains and a gem of a destination at any time of the year. The cottage offers Jacuzzi baths in every room and some of the best breakfasts in Ireland.
24 September – 11 October
Dublin Theatre Festival
44 East Essex Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 00353-16778439
This is always a theatrical feast, with acclaimed work from Britain crossing the sea to meet international and homegrown offerings. Visit the website to view the programme and book tickets for your must-sees as early as you can.
21 October – 1 November
Wexford Opera Festival
Wexford Opera House, High St, Wexford 00353-539122144, wexfordopera.com
This is a hugely popular festival in a pretty seaside town. Twelve days and nights of rarely explored and popular repertoire, including John Corigliano's The Ghosts of Versailles, Chabrier's Une Éducation manqué and Gaetano Donizetti's Maria Padilla, you can also join the opera singers and locals in the pubs as they take part in the annual sing-off to win the Guinness Singing and Swinging pub of the year award.
