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Bangkok Post
Bangkok Post
Travel
PONGPET MEKLOY

Wintery wonderland

Hokkaido, the northernmost of Japan's major islands, makes up one-fifth of the country's land mass. Yes, it's not small. And definitely, it has much more to offer visitors than the already popular destinations like Sapporo, Otaru, Furano, Niseko or Hakodate in the central and southern areas of this large island.

Katsurazawa Lake is one of the many places where people go for wakasagi fishing in wintertime. The smelts caught are normally used to make tempura. Pongpet Mekloy

Currently, the northern part of Hokkaido may not be as prominent on the international tourist map but a glimpse into the region, even in wintertime when much of its true charm is covered with snow and ice, reveals that this area too has a great potential to soon be shining in the tourism limelight.

Not long after our flight landed at the New Chitose Airport, the international gateway to Hokkaido, we hit the road in a hired van to Katsurazawa Lake, 71km northeast of Sapporo, the largest city on the island.

At this time of year, the lake is frozen. From the walking path further uphill, the lake looks more like a vast barren field covered with snow. Beneath the white snow is a thick layer of ice. Below the ice, fish and other aquatic lives continue to thrive in the cold, yet still watery, world. We're here to do some ice fishing.

As we carefully trod after the local guides on the glaciated lake we passed a number of holes bored into the ice. For me, fishing at these open holes would be nothing short of suicide. Luckily, the guides led us a little further to two tents that could protect us from the chilly wind.

I was delighted to find that inside each of the bright orange tents was a fishing hole and heater. As we were here for the wakasagi smelts, the fishing rod was thin and tiny. Each rod came with a line that had a few hooks attached along its length. Unlike big game fishing, there was no long waiting time. Just a few seconds after you drop the line into the hole, you can feel the vibration of the bites. At that moment, just raise the rod to lift the fish (there were two or three of them each time) out of the water and put them in whatever container you have. Like a basketball game, you can score quickly and frequently throughout the session.

Wakasagi ice fishing can be done at many locations in Hokkaido and there are package tours from Sapporo that include not just transportation to the site but also the fishing rigs and proper shoes and clothing. Our group chose to do it at Katsurazawa Lake because it was on the way of our long journey to Wakkanai, Hokkaido's northernmost city.

Along the way, we stopped by Asahikawa, Hokkaido's second largest city, for more animals (this time not to catch them) at Asahiyama Zoo, to experience the penguin parade, feel the awe of polar bears and the cuteness of the red panda that makes it one of Japan's most loved zoos, plus an alpaca farm in Kenbuchi.

After checking out some of the landmarks in Wakkanai, which is less than 50km from Russia's Sakhalin island, we travelled on a scenic road that runs along the west coast facing the Sea of Japan southward to Rumoi and back to Sapporo. During this leg of the journey, we dropped by a few places, from old homes to natural sites, and try different winter activities.

After the four-day road trip through the vast snow land, I discovered something important. It's something I didn't see. Northern Hokkaido is rich with many more splendid attractions that will reveal themselves once the snow is gone. For sure, I shall return.

Alpaca, the cuddly animal from South America, is just one of the many extraordinary creatures you can find in Hokkaido. At the Viva Alpaca Farm where I took this photo, several activities can be enjoyed during wintertime, including airboarding. Pongpet Mekloy
At Asahiyama Zoo during wintertime, you can appreciate the penguins at close range (but make sure you stay behind the line) during their regular parades. A close observation of the polar bear can also be done by popping your head through a hole on the ground of the bear enclosure. It's safe though since there is a strong glass dome covering each hole. The zoo also features seals, the red panda and other animals which are fun to watch as they move around in the snow. Check goo.gl/qcmrzL and www.city.asahikawa.hokkaido.jp for the penguin parade schedule and other details. Pongpet Mekloy
The Northern Breakwater Dome is a landmark of Wakkanai which the city is very proud of. Built in 1936 and 427m long, this half-arched structure offers beautiful protection from wind and waves. The adorable dolphin sculpture at Cape Noshappu is another highlight of the city. From this point, on a clear day, you can see the legendary mountains of Rishiri and Rebun islands not so far away. Pongpet Mekloy
Like many other cities in Japan. Wakkanai has old homes that have been turned into museums. The Former Seto House was once the residence of a wealthy local businessman and his family. The house is full of amazing details, from vintage furniture and appliances to beams made of square-shaped bamboo poles and door handles with intricate patterns. More such museums can also be found at other locations in northern Hokkaido, such as the Maruichi Honmake house and Kunimare sake brewery in Mashike, a small town on the west coast near Rumoi. Pongpet Mekloy
Hokkaido is famed for fresh seafood. Its northern part is no exception. In Rumoi, a coastal city north of Sapporo, I also found some nice cakes and pickled farm produce. The only souvenir I bought from this trip is three bottles of pickled banana. Pongpet Mekloy
Airboarding is a relatively new winter activity. Zooming head first down a snow-covered slope while lying on an inflatable board gives you the chance to experience something close to the thrills enjoyed by skiers and snowboarders. The airboards are easy to manoeuvre. You change direction by shifting your body weight to the side you wish to turn but at the same time, you must make sure not to overdo it otherwise the board would overturn. To slow down, simply lower your legs so that they touch the snow. To stop, just slide your body backward so that your stomach lies on the fluffy ground and that's it. Apart from airboarding, which I tried at Viva Alpaca Farm, northern Hokkaido also offers a variety of other winter activities. At Soya Fureai Park Snow Land, I also tried a ride on a snowcat, a cool-looking large vehicle specially designed for snowy terrain. Snowshoe hiking in Sarobetsu Wetland Centre, which at this time of year is covered with snow so thick that only the top of the trees emerges from the white stuff, was also an eye-opening experience. I'm sure the wetland itself would be full of life as soon as winter is over. Pongpet Mekloy
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