Wearily nearing the end of the current round of supermarket tastings, I’m struck by two things: how little innovation there is (I’ve been seeing the same old wines for years); and how inflated the regular price of some of the bottles now are. The former probably matters less to you than to me – we hacks are always after something new, whereas you’re probably devoutly relieved that a wine you like is still available. But the automatic assumption that supermarket wine is better value really doesn’t stack up.
In fact, it’s getting to a stage when the only time it makes sense to buy supermarket wine is when it’s on promotion, be that a discount on a specific line or, better still, a 25% across-the-board deal when you buy in quantity (usually a minimum of six bottles). I can’t tell you at the time of writing who has a deal on – the supermarkets tend to announce promotions at the last minute, so as not to lose competitive advantage – but if your wine rack needs topping, do check if anyone has one on.
An independent wine shop, on the other hand, will generally offer you better value for money, as well as expert advice on the sort of wine that should appeal to you. France still tends to be the country the indies do best, and I really can’t think of a supermarket that offers a better regular deal than Tanners’ La Cabane Reserve Pays d’Oc Grenache/Syrah 2015 (£7.20; 13% abv), which is everything you want from an everyday red, or Adnams’ Grapes Range Tempranillo 2015 (£6.99; 13.5% abv), a vibrant, juicy, young, rioja-style red that just happens to be organic into the bargain. Both are ideal for Halloween/Bonfire Night week.
The indies’ real strength, however, are wines you simply won’t find on most supermarkets’ shelves, for instance the intriguing Páramos de Nicasia Maquina & Tabla Verdejo 2014/15 (£13.95, or £12.50 if you buy an unsplit case, Lea & Sandeman; 13.5% abv), a sensuously rich, modern Spanish white that reminds me of oaked white bordeaux and is the best white I’ve had from Rueda. Lovely label, too.
All that said, I do have one heads up for the high street, a bottle I’ve been saving up to recommend for Halloween: Firefly Moonshine Apple Pie Liqueur (29.1% abv), from South Carolina. Disregard the fact that it comes in a rather naff jar, rather than a bottle; it has an insidiously moreish, warm apple pie and cinnamon flavour that I reckon would be fantastic with an apple cake or crumble. You can buy it online from The Whisky Exchange for £18.45, or for £22.99 at Wine Rack.
