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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Fiona Beckett

Wine: cheap reds to make Bonfire Night go off with a bang

When I ask myself why supermarkets devote acres of shelf space to the same grape varieties, instead of having more imaginative ranges, the answer is simple: because that’s what their customers want. Most of the time, I see it as my mission to introduce you to less familiar and more exciting (to me) wines and grape varieties, but the first weekend in November isn’t one of them. You’re going to be standing in the cold for hours at a firework display. You’re more than likely to be having the neighbours round for bangers afterwards. What you need are cheap, hearty reds, so that’s what you’re going to get this week.

Nimes wine
Costières de Nîmes - great with hotdogs or chilli Photograph: Jim Powell/Guardian

If you have an Aldi nearby, I would head there for a start. The regular suspects I’ve mentioned before – Toro Loco Tempranillo (still at £3.79; 12.5% abv) and Andara Merlot (£3.99; 12.5% abv) – are still terrific buys, but my top pick would be the new Venturer series Costières de Nîmes (£4.79; 13.5% abv), a rich, spicy, Rhône-like blend of grenache, syrah and mourvèdre – almost like mulled wine without the need to mull it. (Better to mull the Toro Loco, incidentally.)

Mourvèdre (along with carignan) also features in the new Tesco Finest Fitou Domaine Aubermesnil (12.5% abv), which at time of writing is £7.99, but with any luck will be on one of those 25%-off deals they don’t tell us about until the last minute in case their competitors trump them with a better offer.

Sticking to the south of France, Lidl has a couple of well-priced Côtes du Rhônes: the beefy Le Cave Coteaux du Rhône Tradition 2011 (£5.49; 13.5% abv), which is traditional, as the name implies; and the fruitier, more youthful Domaine du Gourget Côtes du Rhône Villages, Rochegude 2013 (£5.99; 13.5% abv). Both would hit the spot with anything porky.

The Co-Op has a belting new Argentinian red, Las Moras Syrah (£6.99; 13% abv), one of the first wines from the 2014 vintage and perfect for a Bonfire Night barbecue. Syrah is as good a buy from Argentina as malbec, I reckon.

And if you want nothing to do with fireworks and just yearn to tuck up with a good book? Can I suggest the new Laphroaig Select Single Malt (40% abv)? It’s blended from an unusual selection of casks including oloroso and PX sherry, resulting in a richer, sweeter, fruitier whisky than the standard bottling, but still with that unmistakeable whiff of peat and bonfire. It’s on offer at Waitrose for £29.50, and around £35 elsewhere. To my relatives: you may buy me a bottle for Christmas, if you like.

matchingfoodandwine.com

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