Founded in the early nineties by Miuccia Prada, Miu Miu — the eclectic, subversive, sibling to the Prada brand — has become synonymous with irreverent femininity and intellectual playfulness, taking girlish — some may say prim — archetypes such as pleats, bows, Peter Pan collars, and micro-minis and reworking them with wit, irony and an avant-garde edge.
The brand first entered the olfactory world in 2015, its debut Eau de Parfum penned by master perfumer Daniela Roche Andrier, landing on beauty editor desks in an irresistible sky-blue quilted bottle, mimicking the brand’s signature matelassé leather.
This month sees the launch of Miutine, the latest addition to the franchise — and the first since the brand signed its deal with L’Oréal in 2024. Fronted by Emma Corrin, it is composed by master perfumer Dominique Ropion, the name behind an array of olfactory masterpieces, from Frederic Malle’s Portrait of a Lady, to Victor and Rolf’s Flowerbomb and Mugler’s Angel.
Those with their finger on the beauty industry pulse may be less than surprised to discover that Miu Miu’s latest offering is a suitably irreverent take on the gourmand category, featuring notes of brown sugar, vanilla, and Mara des Bois strawberry.
An olfactory family built around edible, dessert-like notes such as vanilla, coffee, praline and caramel, these scents are designed to evoke indulgence and warmth, with the category currently enjoying a significant revival. Google reports a staggering 365% increase in searches for the term “gourmand” year-on-year, while TikTok views are up by 207% year on year, reflecting a particular appeal among Gen Z
I caught up with Ropion to discuss the brand-new launch
What was the creative brief from Miu Miu?
My initial brief was to create a fragrance that embodied Miu Miu’s irreverent, youthful spirit. Considering this, I immediately thought of a wild strawberry and gardenia theme that I had already crafted. It felt instinctively aligned with the brand’s energy.
And how did this brief evolve in your hands?
Since Miu Miu loves to play with eras in its fashion - I was inspired to twist a classic chypre structure, and modernise it. I aimed to shape a fragrance that was both youthful and sophisticated, playful and elegant. The result is a chypre-gourmand that I think captures the essence of the Miu Miu girl.
I contrasted the richness of brown sugar with the earthy elegance of a classic chypre. The gourmand notes bring indulgence, while patchouli oil and mossy mineral accord add structure and tension. It is playful yet refined. Never too sweet. Never too serious.
Was the creative process that you describe challenging in any way?
I had been working on the strawberry–gardenia duo for years. When Miu Miu approached me, I revisited the accord … refining it to match the brand’s DNA. One of the main challenges was elevating the strawberry note to make it luxurious and complex, avoiding any overly sweet impression.
Balancing this with the elegance of gardenia, and layering in gourmand touches like brown sugar and vanilla, required precision. It was about finding harmony in contrasts, and ensuring the fragrance felt modern and emotionally resonant.
You’ve worked with the world’s most iconic olfactory ingredients. What inspired you to place the Mara des Bois strawberry at the heart of this fragrance?
This idea came to me while analysing the molecular composition of the Mara des Bois strawberry. I noticed unexpected similarities with gardenia: shared fruity lactones, floral tones, and even green facets (like hexenol). That comparison revealed a fascinating synergy between the two, and was what sparked the original concept for the fragrance.
Where does Miutine transport you emotionally or imaginatively when you smell it?
Miutine transports me to a place of spontaneous joy and emotional freedom. Somewhere full of light, with vibrant energy.
What trends, habits or movements are you seeing in perfumery now, and how does Miutine fit in?
One of the strongest trends in perfumery today is the return of fruity notes (in all categories including haute-couture). People are seeking scents that appeal directly to the senses and awaken good memories.
Miutine fits perfectly into this trend: it is luminous, playful, and built around the Mara des Bois strawberry, which brings a multisensory, spontaneous pleasure.
