Wherever you go in Rochester, you can’t escape Dickens. The novelist grew up in this part of Kent and several times each year the town doffs the top hats for him, with the start of December seeing the Dickensian Christmas festival.
The historic centre, full of half-timbered charm, has staved off the invasion of the chain stores. Wander down the high street and you’ll find independent shops and Dickens-based punning — full marks to Pips the greengrocer. All these gems are within a 20-minute walk from the town’s railway station.
What to see
Standing sentinel on the River Medway is Rochester castle, its great keep (built in 1127) dominating the town. Its cathedral largely dates from Norman times, too. The Guildhall Museum has Roman remains and Victorian drawing rooms that’ll take you back in time.
Where to eat and drink
Dickens’ legacy lives on in a collection of tea rooms. Tiny Tim’s and Peggotty’s Parlour pile on the scones and cakes. On High Street, The Deaf Cat serves the town’s best coffee and keeps up the Dickens theme — it’s named after the author’s favourite pet. Smoke & Liquor boasts a restaurant menu inspired by open-fire cooking, seasonal produce and bold flavours, while for drinks you’ll also find fine microbrewery pubs that use Kentish hops. Search out The Flippin’ Frog, a 10-minute walk from the station, where there’s often live music. Back in the town centre, The Cheese Room, opened in 2017, has a devoted following for its local offerings.
Places to explore
The Vines is a delightful small park near the Cathedral that monks used to tend grapes in. Watt’s Meadow is another enticing green space, while the Centenary Walk will take you from Rochester along the Medway’s evocative marshlands. Back in town, Baggins Book Bazaar is England’s largest antiquarian and second-hand book dealer — it’s worth a pilgrimage for a copy of Great Expectations.
Where to stay
The Old Tuck Shop is as sweet as its name. A one-bedroom cottage dating from the 14th century, it has low ceilings and plenty of beamed charm. There’s also the Golden Lion pub situated on High Street, which has nine bedrooms.
To discover hidden gems in the South East, and book your train tickets, visit southeasternrailway.co.uk/winter
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*This content was commissioned and approved by Southeastern
