The Welsh seaside is home to many of my most entrenched memories. The first time I rode the dodgems was at Porthcawl’s Coney Beach Pleasure Park in Mid Glamorgan, my stomach full of Fulgoni’s ice-cream. I can recall sitting with my parents at Holyhead port waving off the ferries on their way to Dublin. I’m almost certain I heard a Brummie accent for the first time in Aberaeron. And, ah yes, I got married on Penarth Pier.
Encircled by the sea on three sides, Wales is blessed with a rugged coastline, which Lonely Planet once listed as the best region on Earth. As of 2018, 47 of the country’s beaches have been awarded blue flag status.
Arguably the best way to see the coastline in all its glory is to walk it. Stretching 870 miles from Chester in the north to Chepstow on the Gloucestershire border in the south, the Wales Coast Path remains the world’s only uninterrupted route along a national coast.
My favourite section is the path from Ceredigion, which runs for 37 miles along the coast of Cardigan Bay up to Ynyslas, just north of Aberystwyth. The jewel in the crown en route is the secluded cove of Mwnt, one of the best places in the UK for dolphin watching. On a clear day, you can pick out Snowdonia in the distance.
An honourable mention must also go to Llansteffan. Situated on Carmarthenshire’s south coast on the estuary of the River Tywi, this haven of tranquility affords spectacular panoramic views across Carmarthen Bay towards the Gower. Take a stroll on the beach before climbing up to the ruins of Norman-built Llansteffan Castle. And, before you leave, make sure to pay a visit to Florries Fish and Chips van – the best pysgod a sglodion in west Wales, in this humble writer’s opinion.
Those feeling a little more adventurous should seek out the sections of the coast path designated for cycling. North Wales has some of the best routes, including Prestatyn to Llandudno (20 miles), and on to the resort of Llanfairfechan. A popular route, and mostly flat, the views take in not only the sea, but also the Clwydian Range, a designated area of outstanding natural beauty.
If surfing’s your thing, the Gower Peninsula is definitely for you. Home to high-rolling breakers, Llangennith has long been a favourite destination for surfers from far and wide. For those less confident in the water, Oxwich Bay – which sits on the opposite side of the peninsula on the Bristol Channel – has a lower swell and is considerably less daunting.
Pembrokeshire is the birthplace of coasteering – a combination of swimming, climbing, jumping and diving – an activity that has grown in popularity in recent years. A popular route is along the Abereiddi and Abermawr coast, home to the Blue Lagoon, sprawling beaches, and rocks and ruins. It’s worth going with an accredited provider, which will have guides who have good local knowledge of the safest locations. With more than 116 miles of public bridleways in Pembrokeshire Coast national park alone, the county is also ideal for horse-riding holidays.
Jutting out 30 miles into the Irish Sea, the Llŷn Peninsula, south of Anglesey, has a distinct, unspoilt character with cosy seaside towns. On its tip lies Bardsley Island, which you can visit on a day trip. The waters off this peninsula are perfect for sailing and windsurfing, with Abersoch beach being one of the area’s most notable stretches of sand.
Sea kayaking is another great way to explore the coast, especially the sheltered coves and bays. Hotspots include Pembrokeshire and Anglesey, in the north. A number of local licensed providers offer a range of experiences, from day trips to kayaking holidays. There’s probably no better way of observing seals, seabirds and other marine wildlife.
Wales boasts some of the UK’s best sea-fishing conditions. Keen anglers can expect to discover everything from monster pollack and wrasse in the waters off Pembrokeshire, to flatfish and tope off the Dyfi and Tywi estuaries in Carmarthenshire.
Swinging back east, the pebble beaches of Llantwit Major in the Vale of Glamorgan are a fossil-hunter’s dream. The more gimlet-eyed collector can expect to find everything from Jurassic corals and shells, to sponges and bones. Fossil-hunting can be thirsty work, so make sure to drop in for a pint, or cwrw, at the Plough and Harrow, rated one of Wales’s best pubs.
For inspiration to plan your break in Wales check out visitwales.co.uk
