Most major wine countries have their own signature wine _ a wine that defines them to fans worldwide. If you mention Italy, the first thing that comes to my mind is Chianti. You say Spain, I reply Rioja. With New Zealand, the wine is sauvignon blanc.
Reasons vary. Here are some examples:
Italy's red Chianti caught the world's attention when American GIs came back from World War II with fond memories of straw-covered bottles on red checkered table cloths at outdoor cafes, with perhaps a bit of amore added.
Chianti has gone through some bad patches since, but today it's better than ever, with more complex grape blends, better winemaking technology and powerful flavors that give it greater aging ability. Those GIs would be astonished.
_ 2012 Ruffino "Riserva Ducale" Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (80 percent sangiovese, 20 percent cabernet sauvignon and merlot): vivid dark red hue, floral aromas, powerful flavors of black cherries and herbs, full body, big, ripe tannins, lingering finish; $15.
_ 2011 Ruffino "Riserva Ducale Oro" Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG (80 percent sangiovese, 20 percent cabernet sauvignon and merlot): floral aromas, powerful flavors of black plums, mocha and spice, muscular tannins, full body, long, smooth finish; $41.
Spain's Rioja takes great care to maintain its reputation as a wine with great value for its price. You can buy a 7- to 10-year-old bottle for the price of a 3-year-old bottle from many other countries.
Today's Riojas use old, low-yield, high-quality vines and modern vinification methods. Good examples are the "Haciendo Lopez de Haro" wines by Bodega Classica. One of them is a seven-year-old wine for $18.
_ 2015 "Hacienda Lopez de Haro" Tempranillo DOC Rioja (100 percent tempranillo): violet hue, hint of oak, aromas and flavors of tart cherries and licorice, light body, lively acids; $10.
_ 2013 "Hacienda Lopez de Haro" Crianza, DOC Rioja (90 percent tempranillo, 7 percent garnacha, 3 percent graciano): dark red hue, hint of oak, aromas and flavors of red plums and vanilla, medium body, long, smooth finish; $14.
_ 2009 "Hacienda Lopez de Haro" Reserva, DOC Rioja (tempranillo, graciano): dark color, aromas and flavors of black cherries and espresso, ripe tannins, full body; $18.
New Zealand's sauvignon blanc has an odd back-story. Twenty-some years ago, when U.S. winemakers were arguing over whether sauvignon blanc should be tart and almost feline or so sweet it was called a chardonnay wannabe, New Zealand came to market with crisp, fresh, refreshing sauvignon blancs that some wine fans said tasted like gooseberries. The descriptor caught on _ even among fans who had never been in the same room with a gooseberry.
(Intrigued, I went out and bought a can of gooseberries and, lo, they tasted like New Zealand sauvignon blancs. There is order in the universe!)
Sauvignon blanc's "gooseberry" reputation comes from cool weather grapes, also boasting flavors from cut grass to kiwi to white grapefruit and herbs. Their tartness means they go better with many foods � from roast chicken to creamy pastas _ than other, sweeter white wines. Trivia note: It's one of the few wines that goes with asparagus.
_ 2015 Nobilo Icon Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand (100 percent sauvignon blanc): heady aromas and flavors of those gooseberries plus white grapefruit, minerals and flowers, light-bodied, crisp and tart; $22.
_ 2015 Matua Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand (100 percent sauvignon blanc): aromas and flavors of tart peaches and citrus, lively and crisp, mineral-tinged finish; $13.
_ 2015 Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand (100 percent sauvignon blanc): aromas of lemons, tart pears and green apples, lively and crisp, hint of herbs in the finish; $20.
