Good things don't last forever. But if we're lucky, they morph into something new that carries with it the spirit of what made the original so great.
After a decade in the game, the elegant French brasserie 4 Garcons is bidding adieu, as the contract for its Thong Lor establishment expires. To fill the onion-soup-shaped hole it's leaving behind, chef and owner, Ayusakorn "Van" Arayangkoon, has conceived of a new culinary wonderland. And he's ageing down, with vivacious geometric lines and funky wallpaper.
Named Second Edition, the sunny and colourful new restaurant, situated at the bottom of the Siamese Exclusive condo on Sukhumvit 31, is designed by Studio Act Of Kindness, the same firm behind such dreamy eateries as Sririta Jensen's Organika and Sretsis Parlour.
After 10 years of cooking French fare, Ayusakorn decided that it was time for something a little more fresh and expansive. So Second Edition has a completely new menu. Of course, it retains all the cooking excellence of 4 Garcons. There are even a few old favourites, such as the Truffle Cream Soup.
Second Edition offers a solid grill house concept, with many comfort dishes picked up from the owner's extensive travels around the world. While people usually buy souvenirs for those back home, chef Van buys local ingredients. When he gets back home, he cooks an exotic meal for friends and family, giving them something more authentic.
"It's a different kind of travel gift, but it's just as nice," he says. With a flavour range that will take you as far away as Mongolia (as a lamb dish exhibits), the chef explains that an expanding array of influences have pushed his menu beyond typical Western fare.
"An example is we use fennel seeds as it really gives off a Moroccan feel to the dish. The trend is shifting towards the authentic and exotic because people really yearn for something original," he said.
While inspiration comes from around the world, Second Edition sources the finest local produce. One of their best starters, the grilled figs in bacon and mascarpone (280 baht), uses figs from Ratchaburi. These are flavoured by light, foamy mascarpone and just a hint of sweetness from the balsamic, the bacon adding a pleasing crunch. This last ingredient, one of chef Van's favourites, reappears in the grilled squid with thick bacon and bell pepper (280 baht). It is too simple and easy to merely grill the squid with bacon, so he goes the extra step by wrapping tender bacon around his even softer squid.
As far as comfort food goes, an exceptional highlight not to be missed is the flat bread, with four different toppings to choose from. It looks just like a pizza, but takes up less space in your belly. We went for the blue cheese, cherry tomatoes, mushrooms, mozzarella and caramelised onions (440 baht), which came on a base that was almost paper-thin. It remains addictively crunchy even after you've already packed in three slices.
Beef is the supposed star of Second Edition, but there are also plenty of lamb, seafood, pork and poultry options. A guilt-free choice is the grilled whole sea bass in fig leaves with chimichurri sauce (650 baht). While this dish is not as flashy (or fattening) as some of its more decorative counterparts, you really get to see how the most refined cooking techniques let the ingredients speak for themselves. The sea bass is cooked to juicy perfection and comes very lightly seasoned, with the crispy fig leaves it comes wrapped in adding texture to each bite.
There are some Greek undertones to the fish, but if you'd like to head East for your beef, go for the Korean-style grilled wagyu beef ribs (980 baht). This hunk of meat is stewed for hours in Korean spices before being grilled with a sweet glaze. It comes with a side of mashed potatoes and fresh lettuce to wrap the beef in, Korean style. It's refreshing to see beef getting a different treatment, but if you are all for traditional steak, the finest imported cuts from Australia, USA, Argentina, Japan and France come with 10 different sauces to choose from.
Keeping true to their grilled concept, dessert comes grilled too. That is, grilled pineapple with caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream (180 baht). It's uncomplicated and brings just the right amount of sweetness to round off your meal nicely. A rotation of the cake of the day is also on offer.
It's best to visit Second Edition in a big group, as many of the dishes come in large portions best for sharing. There are smaller plates available, but it would be a shame to not be able to sample as many dishes as possible.
On weekends, the breakfast menu is available from 8am onwards. With a vibrant setting and perfectly cooked dishes, this really is a place where the joy of eating and sharing is at optimum levels. We can only foresee second helpings and second returns when it comes to Second Edition.
