Speyside boasts the highest concentration of distilleries in the world with about 50 in all. Photograph: Mark Tran
My travelling companion was dubious at the idea of a four-course meal accompanied by a dram of whisky with each course.
"The idea of eating some peaty meal with a side order of peat washed down with some peaty drink does not really sound appealing," said Claire.
The occasion was a gourmet dinner at the Spirit of Speyside Whisky festival. This increasingly popular annual shindig began in 1998 to celebrate the 50 or so whiskies produced in Speyside, a small area 14m east of Inverness that takes its name from the river Spey. And the region has much to celebrate.
Speyside boasts the highest concentration of distilleries in the world - about 50 in all - featuring single malts such as Glenlivet, Glen Moray, Macallan, Glenfarclas and Aberlour.
Appropriately enough, the venue was a traditional cooperage belonging to the Glen Moray distillery. Normally a warehouse full of barrels of whisky, the cooperage, with dark wooden beams, had been transformed into an attractive dining hall for 250 guests.
At the tables in front of each guest were five small glasses of whisky, shimmering like liquid gold in the candlelight, waiting for their accompanying courses.
The dinner was the creation of Graham Harvey, the chef proprietor of the Craggan Mill restaurant in Grantown-on-Spey. The first course was a silky haggis soup laced with a 15-year-old Glenfarcas, and served with - you've guessed it - a little more of the same whisky.
The soup was of a lovely meatiness, yet light and delicate. It worked wonderfully well with a dram of Glenfarcas. However, I have to say that the combination of whisky with the main course - roast Spey salmon with a hint of orange - failed to hit the right spot. Those at my table thought it cried out for wine. What was a revelation, however, was the very successful combination of cheese, oatcakes and a 12-year Cragannmore.
Between each course, Martine Nouet, a French whisky connoisseur and cookery writer, sang the praises of each whisky, using the same terms familiar to any wine critic - floral, spicy, hints of old ladies' handbags, strawberry or some other fruit. Her enthusiasm had the Scots at my table ruing at their own lack of fervour in promoting their products, from the natural beauty of the land to their whiskies.
"The trouble with us is we don't use enough adjectives," one of my fellow diners said.
Despite her initial doubts, Claire thoroughly enjoyed the experimental dining experience. It had worked less well in some courses than others, but the overall verdict was positive.
"It's a really good way of drinking whiskies, better than drinking it at tastings," Claire concluded.
As for me, I shall start drinking whisky with my goat's cheese and cheddar.
· Read part one of Mark's Speyside blog: A taste of the Highlands.
