Nov. 19--When Hot Doug's closed its doors in October, Chicago lost its greatest argument for waiting in line for food. The hysteria of its final month caused freethinking people to stand 12 hours for a hot dog. Now that Doug's is but a wiener figment in our imaginations, which Chicago restaurant will take its place as worthiest of waiting in line to dine?
In our nonscientific, small-sample-size study, our team visited eight restaurants notorious for long wait times. Two of them (Wildfire, Fat Rice) take reservations, but we chose not to make one. We showed up unannounced at 7 p.m. on a recent Friday with one other person. Then we waited (or in some unusual cases, we didn't). But in that moment of time, we posed a simple question: Was the restaurant worth the wait? Bear in mind, there are a lot of factors in play -- weather (the temperature was 43 degrees), time of year, the randomness of life -- so your experience will surely vary.
--Christopher Borrelli, Carmel Carrillo, Johnny Oleksinski, Kevin Pang, Jessica Reynolds, Regina Robinson, Phil Vettel and Itasca Wiggins
AU CHEVAL
800 W. Randolph St., 312-929-4580
Wait time estimated at check-in: Between three hours and three hours, 15 minutes.
Actual wait: A paltry-by-comparison two hours, 46 minutes.
How you were contacted: A text that read: "You're one of the next parties on the list at Au Cheval! Please head this way and respond to this text with your status."
Available waiting space: Very little. You're scrunched up by the bar, next to seated patrons. Better to wait next door at the ...
Nearest place to get a drink while you wait: Lone Wolf Tavern (806 W. Randolph St.), 30 steps next door. Yes, I actually counted.
Check for dinner for two: $69. We opted without drinks, as it was 10 p.m. and we were wimps.
Was it worth the wait? The food -- an upscale take on the greasy spoon -- was reliably superb. The cheeseburger was top-notch as usual, arguably one of the three best in the city. The oyster mushroom-kale omelet was the most technically masterful we've ever tasted, cooked to an ideal egg-medium. We've also never experienced a more perfect, buttery golden slice of toast, which accompanied the salmon rillettes. A fantastic meal. Was it worth a wait of nearly three hours? No.
FAT RICE
2957 W. Diversey Ave., 773-661-9170
Wait time estimated at check-in: None. My companion and I were seated immediately at the counter, though there were some open tables too.
Actual wait: Not applicable.
How you were contacted: Patrons are told their table is ready in-person. No texting, calling or buzzers. So don't wander too far!
Available waiting space: Fat Rice owns a speak-easy-style storefront a couple of doors down, where 25 diners can order drinks and bar snacks while they wait for a table. Better yet, those items are conveniently tacked onto your bill at the end of the night, so there's no need to close out at the bar.
Nearest place to get a drink while you wait: Overflow from the waiting area can walk two blocks east to Masa Azul (2901 W. Diversey) and enjoy a margarita in a cool, relaxed environment.
Check for dinner for two: $98 for 3 shared plates and drinks.
Was it worth the wait? Absolutely. Fat Rice serves food so scrumptious and invigorating -- a special mackerel curry was the highlight -- that it's truly worth a much longer wait than, well, none at all. Also, this Macanese restaurant is an ideal option for frustrated vegetarians looking for a hearty meal with bold flavors.
FRONTERA GRILL
445 N. Clark St., 312-661-1434
Wait time estimated at check-in: The hostess politely informed us that it was two hours. I asked if that was a real two hours or a standard-issue, wink-wink two hours to thin out the herd. She repeated: Two hours.
Actual wait: 35 minutes. We were told there were several cancellations.
How you were contacted: Phone call and two text messages.
Available waiting space: Four chairs inside a chilly windowed area.
Nearest place to get a drink while you wait: Frontera has a very popular, very crowded bar; we opted for a couple of churros and some hot chocolate at Rick Bayless' next-door spot, Xoco.
Check for dinner for two: About $60 without drinks.
Was it worth the wait? Yes, and we were surprised: The crowds, which get overly touristy, can be daunting, a crush of aging bros; and the food, which has seemed to lose a little luster in recent years, might not seem worth the hassle when the more affordable, and arguably more soulful option, Xoco, is right next door. But the drinks were bright and interesting, and the 20-hour-smoked brisket, in a Oaxacan mole sauce (and even the mashed potatoes, made with a Mexican goat cheese), a Friday special, suggested a new energy.
HOPLEAF
5148 N. Clark St., 773-334-9851
Wait time estimated at check-in: 30 minutes.
Actual wait: 12 minutes.
How you were contacted: Host found me at the bar.
Available waiting space: Found one seat at the bar (which I took).
Nearest place to get a drink while you wait: Simon's Tavern (5210 N. Clark), half a block.
Check for dinner for two: $43 with drinks.
Was it worth the wait? Yes. The service was great, the food was delicious and the beer was cold. Only complaint: Can we get Martell cognac on the drink menu?
KUMA'S CORNER
2900 W. Belmont Ave., 773-604-8769
Wait time estimated at check-in: 45 minutes.
Actual wait: 1 hour and 5 minutes.
How you were contacted: Hostess called out our party's name.
Available waiting space: All the bar seats were occupied, but you can grab a drink and huddle near the window or doorway. The space is small, however, so you might have to stand outside.
Nearest place to get a drink while you wait: Square Bar Grill (2849 W. Belmont Ave.), half a block up across the street.
Check for dinner for two: $56 with drinks
Was it worth the wait? An emphatic yes, but vegetarians and your grandmother probably wouldn't think so.
PARACHUTE
3500 N. Elston, 773-654-1460
Wait time estimated at check-in: There was no line! A long one quickly formed after our arrival, though.
Actual wait: Not applicable.
How you were contacted: NA, but restaurant will contact you by phone.
Available waiting space: There is a small banquette that fills up quickly.
Nearest place to get a drink while you wait: Chief O'Neill's (3471 N. Elston Ave.), 1 block away.
Check for dinner for two: $98 for three shared plates, two glasses of wine and tip.
Was it worth the wait? Despite the noise level and mostly communal tables with somewhat uncomfortable seating, yes. The food and cocktails were excellent. (Would I wait an hour or more? No, not for this restaurant or any other.)
PURPLE PIG
500 N. Michigan Ave., 312-464-1744
Wait time estimated at check-in: 2 hours, 15 minutes.
Actual wait: 1 hour, 25 minutes.
How you were contacted: Cellphone.
Available waiting space: We were told we could wait out on the patio benches with drink service, but the warmers were not close enough to the benches, so you either stood and kept warm, or sat and froze.
Nearest place to get a drink while you wait: Michael Jordan's Steakhouse bar (505 N. Michigan Ave.) across the street, which is where we waited instead of on the Pig benches.
Check for dinner for two: $48 with tip and Pellegrino.
Was it worth the wait? Yes, because we enjoyed the garlic bread and wine at Michael Jordan's, but absolutely not for the Purple Pig meal. Everything was so salty. I wasn't even able to eat my chicken. And, we were seated at a table in the covered outside area. The cover was a joke; I had to eat with my gloves on. My guest described our experience by saying Purple Pig is for people who don't care about comfort; mainly trend followers and tourists.
WILDFIRE
232 Oakbrook Center, Oak Brook, 630-586-9000
Wait time estimated at check-in: Smiling hostess said, "An hour and 15 to an hour and a half."
Actual wait: 52 minutes.
How you were contacted: There are guest pagers, or you can ask to be text-messaged if you plan to wander (it's in a mall, after all).
Available waiting space: Spacious bar with a few bar-height tables (first-come, first-served); full menu is available here, which means seats don't turn over as quickly as they might.
Nearest place to get a drink while you wait: Down the outside stairs is the mall's restaurant row, which includes Perry's Steakhouse Grill, Reel Club and Pour House, all with sizable lounges.
Check for dinner for two: $56 for two steak sandwiches and two glasses of wine.
Was it worth the wait? Wildfire offers good food and very good service in a comfortable, clubby atmosphere; steaks are the main menu thrust, but the burgers and sandwiches, particularly the French dip, are budget-friendly options.
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