Lunch on Tanzania Safari
The lion ripped off the dead zebra’s leg and walked away with it–the striped skin dangling on the ground.
And then, there were the dozens of zebras, ears twitching, nervous, looking out for danger.
These two moments came on African safaris–but very different experiences. For there really are two distinct types of safari in Africa–the one in South Africa, contrasting with the one in Tanzania.
That said, I found both experiences transformative. Our Tanzania experience was awash in luxury, thanks to our Abercrombie & Kent tour. The trip was called “Tanzania Safari in Style,” with a group of only 10 people (the website is abercrombiekent.com).
I recall the amenities in unexpected places: How about a picnic lunch in the spectacular Ngorongoro Crater, white linen tablecloth, metal forks and knives, an endless buffet and drinks from wine to beer to iced tea, followed by desserts? The sun was shining, and in the distance we could see the wildebeests grazing.
Variety of Tanzania Wildlife
It contrasts with the moments that came before–a chase over bumpy roads in our outsized Jeep as we raced to get to the zebras as they were crossing in front of us. There were only five of us to a Jeep, plus the guide and driver, so we quickly got to know one another and enjoy the company.
Tanzania has an ongoing problem with poachers, so for the most part, drivers are not allowed to leave the proscribed roads to go after something fascinating. You have to wait for the animals to come to you. But in our South African experience, in smaller, open vehicles, we always went off-road if our guide, in contact with other guides, heard of a kill, say. We would actually drive alongside lions, just a few feet away.
“The lion doesn’ty see you,” our guide explained. “The lion sees some four-wheeled contraption in which he has no interest.”
For sheer numbers of animals, the Tanzania experience was the more gratifying. Yes, we saw the Big Five–buffalo, rhino, elephants, lions and leopards–in both places. But in South Africa, you might have half a dozen buffalo–very angry, very unpredictable, by the way–munching away. In Tanzania, I coudln’t count the nunbers, there were so many.
Up Close And Personal In South Africa
On the other hand, we’d scoot off the main road in South Africa to see a leopard chased up a tree by a lion. We camped under the tree, just staring up at the panting animals.
On our Abercrombie & Kent Tanzanian trek, we waited patiently while dozens of elephants crossed the road. And there always was a panorama of the open plain–wildebeest grazing alongside zebra, not far from a herd of elephants. In South Africa, there was more bush, and more searching for smaller groups, or even individual animals.
Both had their comfortable tents, of course (the word “tent” doesn’t even begin to describe a place with flush toilets, showers, and sometimes even a television).
The food on our Tanzanian real-life fantasy was quite extraordinary.
When you think of “safari,” think of which type you’d prefer. Of course, you’ll probably love both. And there’s something to be said for roughing it while sipping a crisp, chilled Riesling along with egglplant parmigiana in the middle of a volcanic crater, while outside you hear monkeys screeching and, yes, that’s a lion roaring.
