How times change. In 2001 I lived near Borough Market, something few but King Midas could afford to do now. A young lad called Jamie Oliver was there most Saturday mornings, fondling herbs with a film crew in tow, as you do. Now Jamie’s a millionaire, and we can all live near farmers’ markets, with more than 600 across the country, the majority in southern England (London and Kent having the biggest clusters). Outside the south-east, particularly the further north and west you live, markets are rarer: pick-your-own farms and shops on working farms tend to dominate.
Some markets, such as Moseley Farmers’ Market near Birmingham – winner of the trade body Farma’s latest awards – remain grounded; others sell hand-polished berries at £32 a punnet. Their greatest legacy, though, has been waking us up from zombieing round supermarkets. We all fondle herbs now.
Food markets of all kinds – from street food to roving festivals such as Eat – have diversified, a growth area in a sector threatened by online shopping, says Nabma, the market industry body. This year’s winner of Britain’s favourite market was Shrewsbury Market Hall. Traditional covered markets such as this – or Bury’s, Leeds’ Kirkgate or Belfast’s St George’s, all award winners – have been reborn. So go on, take your pick and rip that coriander.
