Located on U-Thong Nok Road, Suan Sunandha Rajabhat University may not be your idea of tourism destination in Bangkok. But the university houses a century-old royal mansion which has been renovated to be a museum as well as a restaurant where you can find royal delicacies created in the period of King Rama V.
About a century ago, Suan Sunandha was regarded as the first royal culinary college for ladies of the court.
Back in the late 19th century, the Grand Palace was overcrowded and very hot, especially in summer because the passage of air was blocked by the closely clustered buildings. HM King Chulalongkorn, or King Rama V, often felt unwell while living inside the Grand Palace.
Inspired by his experiences during his second visit to Europe, the king ordered the construction of a new royal residence with lush green gardens. The Dusit Palace was then constructed on a farming area north of the Royal Palace in 1898. The king also decided to add a park in the grounds of Dusit Palace in 1902. But it was not until 1908 that the construction started.
The king named the park Suan Sunandha after his late, beloved wife, Queen Sunandha Kumareerat. The name also referred to the garden in Svarga, a Hindu heaven.
The king expected that Suan Sunandha, which was located on a 112 rai plot of land, to be home to his consorts and their daughters. He also intended to build 32 royal mansions on the site.
"Suan Sunandha was a restricted place reserved only for female members of the royal family and female servants," said the historian and cultural expert Julapassorn Phanomwan Na Ayudhya, who was our tour guide during the press trip organised by Krung Thai Card's PR Press Club.
But the king died in 1910 before the project was completed. King Vajiravudh or King Rama VI, his son, continued the work until it was finished in 1919.
The buildings were constructed in Italian Renaissance style and also had a large pond, hills and various types of trees and flower plants.
"The hills were made from soil dug out from the pond," he said. Only one hill still remains until today. It is also has a chamber inside, which was once used as a stockroom.
Phra Vimada Thoe Phra Ongchao Saisavali Bhiromya, a consort of King Rama V, resided in Suan Sunandha in 1924, until she died in 1929.
She was famous for her cooking skills and was also in charge of food for King Rama V.
During her residency, there were also other 13 consorts, and their 17 princesses resided in the compound of Suan Sunandha. Having kids and teenagers in the royal resident complex, HRH Princess Saisavali founded Niphakhan School to offer formal education. She also provided the best teachers in many fields, including British woman teachers for English classes and noted artists offering training in the high-culture arts and craftsmanship.
Her heritage cuisine has also been practised and passed on to many generations until today.
Among them is kaeng ranchuan, which was made of beef from a previous meal. She washed the sliced meat, then mixed it with leftover chilli dip, lemongrass and basil leaves. The taste was mild-salty, sour and sweet.
"HRH Princess Saisavali was creative. She always created mouthwatering dishes from leftover food. She was remarkably frugal," he said.
She also created many types of chilli dips (nam phrik) such as nam phrik luk namliab (chilli dip with salted black Chinese olives) and nam phrik takhrai (chilli paste with lemongrass).
The famous nam phrik long ruea (chilli dip with fluffy pieces of deep-fried catfish and fresh vegetables) also originated in Suan Sunandha royal residence. The dish was created by Chao Chom Sadab, King Rama V's last consort. She prepared it from leftover food in the kitchen after HRH Princess Nibha Nabhadol Vimala Prabhavati, who was the youngest daughter of HRH Princess Saisavali, asked to have dinner in a boat. In the kitchen, she found the chilli dip, so she mixed it with deep-fried catfish and sweet pork and put yolk of salted egg on top. The dish was served with fresh vegetables. As a result, the meal was called nam phrik long ruea (meaning chilli dip in a boat).
In the wake of the Siamese revolution of 1932, which brought an end to absolute monarchy, the remaining residents of Suan Sunandha gradually left the palace. Prime Minister Pridi Banomyong later granted permission to the Education Ministry to convert the royal mansions into a school in 1937.
The name of Suan Sunandha remains today.
Inside Suan Sunandha Rajabhat University, you can visit the well-preserved two-storey wooden mansion of HRH Princess Saisavali. The building is renovated to be the Sai Suddha Nobhadol Building Museum.
It displays the royal chamber, models of royal food, royal kitchenware, and a collection representing the hobbies of HRH Princess Saisavali, such as flower paintings and samples of embroidery. There are also photos of royal family members.
Before leaving, you may head to Kaew Jao Jom restaurant, where you can try some famous dishes created by the princess.
Sai Suddha Nobhadol Building Museum is open daily, 9am-4pm and closed on holidays. There is no entrance fee.
If you want to explore more, Suan Sunandha has three more exhibition halls showcasing Thai classical-music development in the Rattanakosin Era, painting exhibition and Thai classical instruments.
Visit www.culture.ssru.ac.th or call 02-160-1216.
