The late chef Joel Robuchon was one of the world's most illustrious cooking authorities; his restaurants around the globe garnered 32 Michelin stars during his six-decade career.
Before he passed away last year at the age of 72, I was fortunate to have met and talked quite a few times with this much-loved, revered and influential culinary icon.
Let me tell you, apart from his exceptional kitchen dexterity, this record-holding French chef, who initially wanted to be a priest, was one of the most modest and lovable world-class celebrities one could ever wish to meet.
Though Robuchon is gone, his legacy will always remain. And eating his food might be one of the best ways to remember the prodigy.
At L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon Bangkok, a special degustation menu to commemorate the late chef's culinary finesse has lately been launched.
Sea urchin and sea bream carpaccio with citrus.
This repertoire of timeless signature dishes (some of which were created in Paris in the 1990s and earned him Michelin stars) is curated by the restaurant's French executive chef, Olivier Limousin, to "honour and showcase Mr Robuchon's exceptional culinary expertise that stands the test of time".
Limousin had worked with chef Robuchon for more than 16 years, helping him open Table de Joël Robuchon in Paris in 2003, L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon in London in 2006 and L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon Bangkok in 2014. Under Limousin's helm, the Bangkok addition was awarded a star in the 2018 and 2019 Michelin Guides.
The tasting menu, dubbed L'Heritage de Joel Robuchon, is available for both lunch and dinner through a 5-course meal (4,950 baht per person) and 7-course meal (6,950 baht per person).
Kicking off the menu was the all-time cherished Le Caviar. It featured a generous helping of Sologne Imperial caviar and rich-tasting lobster jelly tucked underneath cauliflower cream with evenly spaced dots of parsley puree to add a poignant tang to each bite.
An eye-catching and refreshing rendition of sea bream carpaccio came next. The very thin and translucent slices of fish were flavoured with lemon and French pepper powder and were lent a luxurious finish by a sumptuous scoop of sea urchin roe.
The third course was represented by crispy langoustine papillote with basil. Wrapped in a paper-thin pastry sheet was a chubby Brittany prawn perfectly cooked to retain its natural sweet juice and supple, tooth-resisting quality that's complemented nicely by a creamy pesto.
A black truffle tart with comfit onion and bacon, which arrived next, offered 12g of freshly shaved Perigord winter truffle on top of a buttery yet very light onion and smoked-bacon tart.
To give the meal a soothing intermediate was a piping-hot serving of fresh cheese raviolis in an aromatic broth seethed with ginger and fine herbs.
Sologne imperial caviar in lobster jelly.
Guests who go for the 5-course menu are to choose between black cod and Challans duck main dishes. Diners who settle on the 7-course get to have both fish and poultry.
The black cod dish, for which Robuchon got the inspiration from his visit to Hong Kong a decade ago, featured a silky and plump fillet of the deep-ocean fish, slightly pan-roasted and caramelised, complemented by thick brown Malabar peppercorn sauce, coconut foam and Chinese bok choi.
Offering a more Western taste profile was the French duck dish. A lean and tender medallion of duck breast came accompanied by pan-seared foie gras and potato puree that's so delicious you may find it difficult to stop eating.
Wrapping up the meal were a custard-like pre-dessert of caramelised banana and passion fruit cream, aged rum granite and coconut mousse, and a super-rich dessert of Araguani chocolate cremeux with dark chocolate sorbet and Oreo crumb. Both provided a cloud-nine taste buds ecstasy.
All guests are also treated to a complimentary bread basket upon seating. Try not to overstuff yourself with those super flaky and buttery escargot-shaped brioche buns and comte cheese baguettes.
