In cold weather, I perk up simple suppers with a bit of smoke _ that delicious flavor addition we associate with the grilling days of summer. I would happily enjoy smoked or grilled foods every day. Ditto for homemade soup. Melding the two together proves a match.
Here are two soups with subtle smoke flavors from smoked proteins, such as ham, turkey or fish. Sure to beat the cold-weather blues no matter where you live.
In our family, a leftover holiday hambone tucked away in the freezer means a pot of split pea soup later. A smoky bone, with plenty of meat still clinging, transforms the lowly pea into a satisfying one-pot meal that's part soup/part stew. Lacking a hambone, I'll purchase smoked ham hocks from the meat case in large supermarkets or order hocks in advance from the butcher. Smoked turkey drumsticks work well here too. Whatever bone you choose, any meat that clings to them will render soft when nestled in with the peas, broth and vegetables. I dice the tender meat and add it back to the soup before serving.
These days, I usually opt for yellow split peas in my soup rather than green _ my audience holds them in higher regard. I think it's a color thing. To underscore the pea's natural sweetness and color, I add carrots and sweet potato.
The second recipe is inspired by a soup I enjoyed at my uncle's French bistro in Connecticut _ a classic, creamy cauliflower soup surprisingly topped with a smoked fish toast. Guy, the chef, topped crusty toasted slices of French baguette with whipped cheese and thin curls of smoked salmon. Bites of the toast between spoonfuls of soup took the bite out of a wintry evening.
The soup proves super easy to make _ simply combine everything in the pot, and simmer until the cauliflower is soft. Chopping the cauliflower takes a bit of time, but frozen cauliflower florets can stand in if that helps. For a meatless soup, I use a rich vegetable broth made with lightly roasted onions.
Of course, you can skip the smoked fish toasts and simply serve the soup topped with crunchy croutons and a shower of fresh herbs. Floating a dollop of whipped creme fraiche or plain Greek yogurt and a swirl of fruity olive oil is another way to go.
Part of the pleasure of eating well-made soup is the add-ons that accompany the bowl. At home, I think about swirling in flavorful oil or pesto, chili paste or chopped fresh herbs for another level of flavor. I think about crunch, too, for a textural element. Not just croutons, but fried onions, crumbled toasted chiles, roasted nuts.
All good soup starts with good broth. While I do take pleasure in simmering bones and a few vegetables in water, packaged broth in the grocery store saves time. I look for brands with clean labels, no preservatives and that are made with real ingredients. Check the freezer, too, as there are several good options there now. I really like to use the homemade broth sold at the local butcher shop.
We're cooking for chilly weather, but with the subtle flavors of warmer days.
