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Bangkok Post
Bangkok Post
Lifestyle
MELALIN MAHAVONGTRAKUL

What we do in the shadows

Left Nussara Boonprasert, member of the Suwannaphum Mosque community.

For roughly three decades, Nussara Boonprasert has been selling halal food at the entrance of Suwannaphum Mosque community in Soi Charoen Nakhon 7, a short walk away from Iconsiam. To her, the changes that have come with having a big mall as a neighbour are palpable.

"More people are definitely coming into our community now," said Nussara, 57, who's also on the community's committee. "That improves business here a great deal."

Shopping malls are, to many, the icons of Bangkok. From near or far, on weekdays or weekends, thousands flock to these complexes for dining, entertainment and other attractions to kill time and buy what they need. The world knows Bangkok as one of the great shopping cities. When it comes to shopping, the stores here have it all.

But the mushrooming of shopping malls doesn't just affect business on a larger scale. Local communities are also impacted, in both good and bad ways. Iconsiam is a great example. It has been over three months now since Bangkok's newest shopping complex was opened to the public. Outsiders may see it as just another commercial landmark along the Chao Phraya River, helping boost the economy and so forth. What many are unaware of is the area's rich historical background, and the vibrant community that has lived in this old Klong San neighbourhood since long before the coming of the mega complex.

Suwannaphum Mosque community is home to around 300 people, Nussara among them. Her family has lived here for generations. Along the narrow street of the community, there are several eateries and vendors operated by locals. And ever since Iconsiam announced its construction in 2014, food sellers have been enjoying an increase in customer traffic -- from construction workers to security guards and employees -- seeking more affordable meals near their high-end workplace.

Nussara usually makes biryani, larb, congee and other side dishes for sale. She opens her small shop from 6am until well into the afternoon. Her customers usually come during breakfast and lunch, as well as between their shifts, and business has never been better.

Suwannaphum Mosque.

Inside the community, there's also a century-old mosque. Nussara said that more people, both Thais and foreigners, have been coming here to pray, as it is the closest mosque to Iconsiam.

On the community's notice board, there was a notice from Iconsiam about the New Year, warning people about the noise and light from their New Year fireworks. It also invited community members to the celebration.

"They also invited us and people from other communities to the opening day," said Nussara. "We were there watching the drones, which was pretty fun."

But while there are some benefits, especially in terms of the booming local economy that is a consequence of the larger crowds now storming the neighbourhood, the presence of a big shopping mall does bring certain difficulties to those living near it.

According to Nussara, traffic is one issue that's severely affecting the locals. The amount of cars in the area has increased significantly because of people driving to the mall, and also due to the ongoing construction of the Gold Line monorail on Charoen Nakhon Road that will connect Iconsiam to Bangkok's rapid transit system. The project, set to finish next year, is also sponsored by Iconsiam.

Nussara said better traffic management in and out of the mall is needed in order to lessen the burden on locals who have to commute daily within the neighbourhood.

Inside Suwannaphum Mosque community.

"Not many taxis come into this area anymore. Tuk-tuks have also raised their prices. If I go somewhere else and hail a cab to drop me home, many of them refuse because they don't want to drive into this area. It's become a problem because even going to the hospital now can be difficult for us," she said.

Phon*, a tuk-tuk driver stationed at the nearby market of Klong San Plaza, said the traffic around the area gets especially busy on weekends as many people drive to Iconsiam.

"Sometimes us drivers have to go further away from our immediate area to pick up passengers because the traffic here makes it not worth the trip," said Phon, who's been a tuk-tuk driver for around a decade. He expects the traffic situation to improve upon the skytrain's completion. Meanwhile, on a plus side, Phon said the market and shops benefit from all the employees from Iconsiam that come in daily.

Across the road from Iconsiam is a noodle shop run by Sawanna* and her sisters. She said that the traffic situation is getting better because the initial crowds that flocked to the mall have subsided. They still have to contend with the dust and noise that inevitably come with the rail construction, but she said it wasn't too much trouble. She also visits the mall frequently.

"I think our community has become livelier," she said. "Before, things used to get quiet by 7pm. Now the atmosphere has become more festive because there are always things going on at the mall. It's pretty fun."

Children play in the community's vacant lot near Iconsiam.

The feelings of the people in the surrounding communities are inclined in the same direction. Many complain about the traffic and construction work, but the commercial benefits for the people in the neighbourhood are undeniable.

"Many young people in our community can now get part-time jobs at Iconsiam as waiters and security guards, among others. They don't have to go far from home to work now," said Chin*, who sells snacks at his house in the nearby Wat Suwan community in Soi Charoen Nakhon 9.

Near his small business is Wat Suwan School, an elementary school where many of his young customers study. The school decided to close on the mall's opening day back in November in order to avoid all the oncoming traffic. But aside from that, there have been no issues.

Saisunee Duangkhae, deputy director of Wat Suwan School, said she's not too concerned about having a shopping mall in such a proximity to the school.

"I think they have a different target audience anyway. Besides, it's not a place where young kids like ours can really go for mischief, so we're not really worried about it," she said.


*not their real names

Locals and mall employees enjoy cheap meals in Suwannaphum Mosque community.
Ongoing skytrain construction along Charoen Nakhon Road.
Klong San Plaza.
Wat Suwan School.
Suwannaphum Mosque.
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