London Fashion Week (LFW) returns from September 18-22, and this season the schedule feels more like a reset.
For Laura Weir, who steps into her first season of LFW as CEO of the British Fashion Council (BFC), the week is not just a series of runway shows but “the beginning of a new era.”
Her vision, anchored in accessibility, cultural resonance and global visibility, is already reshaping one of Europe’s most important fashion capitals.
Weir has already waived membership fees for designers, expanded investment in international buyers and media, and woven London’s cultural vibrancy directly into the schedule. The result has been an 18% increase in on-schedule designers and a line-up that’s as expansive as it is ambitious.
So, with pivotal change happening behind the scenes, it seems this LFW will be one of the most defining fashion weeks yet. Here’s what to expect.
A line-up of milestone moments
This season’s runway calendar is packed with heritage brands, as well as spotlighting some fearless newcomers.
Burberry, Simone Rocha, Emilia Wickstead and Erdem return, while Roksanda marks her 20th anniversary with a show certain to celebrate the architect of colour and form.
But there’s also experimentation, with some designers testing out new ways to present their collections. Irish designer JW Anderson will stage a “special evening event” in place of a runway show, reflecting a shift in the way brands build cultural worlds.
The BFC’s NEWGEN programme (the British Fashion Council’s long-standing initiative to support and nurture promising British designers by providing financial aid, mentoring and opportunities to showcase at LFW) promises another electric season of emerging names, with Aaron Esh, Johanna Parv and Karoline Vitto leading the charge.
Hungarian label Nanushka will also make its debut on London soil.
Designers not to be missed
“It’s so hard to mention only a few names, as London Fashion Week always brings such an incredible breadth of talent,” says Weir. “Jonathan Anderson and I will co-host a dinner, which recognises his commitment to London and will celebrate the brand’s relaunch and renewed focus on craftsmanship and creativity.
“This will be my first London Fashion Week as chief executive and I will attend as much as the busy schedule allows.
“Erdem and Roksanda are both celebrating major milestones. The Burberry show will see the next iteration of the iconic British brand. Simone Rocha is always a highlight [and] BFC NEWGEN is known the world over for its incubation of talent and this year’s cohort will not disappoint.”
A new era of LFW
For Weir, leadership is not about subtle tweaks but radical intention.
Stepping into the CEO role of at the BFC, one of her main objectives was to clearly “define the purpose, relevance and impact of London Fashion Week.
“This season marks the beginning of a new era. I hope to create a cultural experience which truly serves our designers and amplifies their work on a global stage.”
Having waived membership fees to make the platform more accessible to designers, Weir says the BFC are curating a schedule that speaks to London’s cultural relevance, having invested further in their international guest programme to ensure heavyweight buyers and media are here in London.
The impact of politics and culture on creativity
Fashion in 2025 does not exist in a vacuum, and Weir acknowledges the turbulence shaping this season; from Gaza to Ukraine.
“Fashion is naturally an expression of the world around us and in these times of acute political, cultural and environmental tension, designers and creatives have always used their art to respond.
“The BFC’s role is to provide a platform for creativity, dialogue and expression, and in the spaces we manage, a safe environment that is free of hate speech,” she continues, “we advocate for the values of respect, inclusivity and responsibility, this must be the heart of everything we do.”
Fashion week beyond London
The most common critique of fashion week is how (almost unavoidably) London-centric it is. So the most ambitious move LFW is undertaking is the determination to take it nationwide.
“Fashion is an incredible economic power,” says Weir. This season, the BFC is getting more out of LFW “through our city-wide celebration, now rolling out to Manchester, Newcastle and Liverpool with over 1,000 activations happening during September.
“It’s an ambitious step towards making London Fashion Week not just a moment for industry, but a celebration of creativity that everyone can be part of.”
And for those who can’t travel, she stresses that access will remain digital.
“Our digital schedule also offers a great opportunity for people […] to tune into London Fashion Week. It is a real space for experimentation, accessibility and global visibility.”
So under this new stewardship, it seems LFW is positioning itself not only as a hub for designers but as a cultural movement that’s a staple not only in the fashion calendar, but in the British calendar as a whole.
Whether it will actually achieve this or not is a question we’ll be asking next season.
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