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Chicago Tribune
Chicago Tribune
Lifestyle
Leah Eskin

What's the difference between semifreddo and ice cream? Does it matter?

Semifreddo means semi-frozen. In a good way. A cream-and-custard-packed-in-a-pan-and-stashed-in-the-freezer way. It doesn't freeze hard, like ice, it freezes soft, like ice cream.

Raising questions.

For instance: If semifreddo is frozen cream and custard, and ice cream is frozen cream and custard, what separates the two pleasures? Apparently churn. Authorities contend that the constant stirring imposed on ice cream during its initial freeze breaks down ice crystals, yielding a smooth, creamy scoop.

But one bite of luscious semifreddo throws this distinction into dispute. Semifreddo serves up a smooth, creamy slab.

Posing further concerns.

For instance: Is churn necessary? What makes semifreddo so delicious? And, after considerable research, why is it all gone?

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