Minimalism. Sounds so simple, doesn’t it? In theory, you should able to whack on a white shirt and black trousers, and sit back secure in the knowledge you were the epitome of minimal chic. But that’s not quite how it works. Some seasons a white shirt and black trousers is unbeatable. Others, it’s fine, but nothing more. And this autumn is one of the latter.
The waters are muddied here by the fact that some women can slay any room, anywhere, anytime, in a white shirt and black trousers. I know this for a fact because they are a hazard of the job, working in fashion. There I’ll be, slightly effortfully glammed up, and she’ll slink out of some atelier, emanating self-possession and making the rest of us feel like Cinderella’s stepsisters, wearing too much perfume and trying to jam our feet into uncomfortable shoes. It is unbelievably annoying, and also misleading, because this type of woman makes it look as if a white shirt and black trousers is always the answer. And it’s not.
Right now, the highest form of minimalism features no black and no white. It calls for no contrast at all. Instead, pick a neutral – I am modelling grey, this being the wall-colour-of-my-generation, but navy is good, brown is coming on strong and pale pink sort of works too, these days. And you wear the same neutral, tone-on-tone, head to toe.
While it lacks the early morning no-brainer appeal of black and white, on the upside there is something quite comforting about this look; cosy and modern, which is a good combination. You want it understated and serene, so matt fabrics only; if you must wear tights, make sure they are not satin or velvet effect and white trainers or brogues are better than dark boots, oddly. Most importantly, factor in enough layers: there’s no point putting this look together if you’re going to ruin it by getting chilly and absentmindedly putting a black jumper on top. Minimalism calls for more effort than you’d think. This is not a black and white issue.
• Jess wears jumper, £69, polo neck, £45, and trousers, £69, all cosstores.com. Courts, £49.99, hm.com.
Styling: Melanie Wilkinson. Hair and makeup: Laurence Close at Carol Hayes Management.