The Margaret River Region means different things to different people.
To surfers, the southwest corner of Australia where the Indian and Southern Oceans meet is home to world-renowned waves. To the area’s Aboriginal custodians – the Wadandi People – the region has been home for more than 50,000 (and counting) years. And to those that take their eating and drinking seriously, the Margaret River Region’s role-call of wineries, restaurants, breweries and distilleries offers good hunting indeed. It’s a place with universal appeal among West Australians, from those that value exclusive experiences –seaplane or chopper from Perth to Leeuwin Estate for lunch, perhaps? – to families who come here to enjoy beaches, bike trails and bush walks. (The grandest of these is the Cape to Cape track, a 130km-long network of trails – guests can explore as much or as little as they like – that take in some of the region’s most impressive vistas). It is, in short, a region for everyone.
Sunset at Sugarloaf Rock on the Cape to Cape track, Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park. Photograph: Dan Avila.
Having your own car is a must for independent travellers. For one, it means you can make the three-hour drive down from Perth at your own pace, but more importantly, it gives you the freedom to really explore the region. (Although it’s named after the river and township, the Margaret River Region stretches almost 110 kilometres from Cape Naturaliste in the north to Cape Leeuwin in the south, and includes local hubs such as Dunsborough, Yallingup, Augusta and Busselton, home of the region’s domestic airport).
After a car, organising somewhere to stay is next on your to-do list. Between the region’s hotels, AirBNBs and rolling out a swag under the stars, your accommodation options are many, but for the ultimate summer experience, consider the stylish beach houses at Smiths Beach Resort, a resort complete with in-house restaurant, bottle shop and providore. At the luxe, European-style end of the market, go directly to the deeply manicured Cape Lodge. Nature lovers, meanwhile, would do well to book the eco cabin at Windows Estate, a bijou timber sanctuary for two among the property’s vines.
From there, Margaret River really is your oyster. It’s also an oyster that should be savoured: anything less than a weekend here would be rushed, particularly for anyone that’s travelled to get here. The township is an excellent place to start your journey and pick up supplies. Hit the Margaret River Bakery for breakfast and to fill your esky with rolls, pastries and other goods to fuel a day of exploring: for those chasing a pick-me-up, head straight for the Polski, a toasted sandwich groaning with spice, sauerkraut and roast beef. The weekly Saturday morning farmers market – arguably the best way to get the lay of the land – is another local institution. Don’t be fooled by Settlers Tavern’s unassuming façade, its winning one-two of pub comfort cooking and great wine make it a popular destination for locals and visitors alike. Explore the township at your leisure, or sign up for a Walk Talk Taste Margaret River brunch or evening tour for the ultimate highlight package.
As fun as it might be to bury your nose in Settlers’ far-reaching wine list, the best way to learn about the region’s wines is by meeting local producers. Regional pioneers such as Cullen Wines, Vasse Felix and the aforementioned Leeuwin Estate don’t just have history on their side: they’re also home to some very sharp restaurants that often feature in discussions about the region’s must-do eats. Among the newer guard, Arimia, Amelia Park and Wills Domain – perhaps home to the region’s most deft cooking; book in for chef Seth James’s tasting menu if you can – also nail the great wining and dining double-play.
Dining at Vasse Felix, Margaret River. Photograph: Vasse Felix Pty Ltd.
Not that the only good eating is to be found in wineries, of course. The opening of Chow’s Table brought sharp Chinese-Malay cooking to the region, while Bunkers Beach House is all about seasonal, local seafood. Back in town, chef Mikihito Nagai’s thoughtful omakase menus makes his eponymous tempura restaurant Miki’s Open Kitchen the hottest dinner ticket in the region. While wine is Margaret River’s best-known liquid export, the local brewing scene has grown over the past two decades with venues like Eagle Bay Brewing Co and Wild Hop Brewing Company constantly drawing crowds. Some are there to explore house-brewed beers, often alongside beer-adjacent ballast in the vein of pizzas, chicken parmies and fish and chips. Others enjoy going to places where there’s space for the kids to run around and enjoy themselves as much as the grown-ups. Margaret River, after all, means different things to different people.
Now is the perfect time to start planning your trip to the Margaret River Region. Discover incredible vineyards and restaurants, luxurious new hotels and a dazzling array of eco-experiences here.
