Back in the 1970s, when I was a toddler in Connecticut, my first introduction to Switzerland was via Swiss Miss, an FMCG brand in cartoon form who wore her hair in pigtails and yodelled in the mountains. She advertised hot chocolate to Americans. As I grew older and travelled to Switzerland, I began to associate the country with fondue, watches and private wealth, art and lakes and mountains. But, until recently, few of us have ever associated Switzerland with wine. And why would we? Have most of us ever seen a bottle of Swiss wine before?
Possibly not, because only 1% of them are exported. And that appears to suit the Swiss just fine. A lot of time, energy and investment has historically been poured into the Switzerland’s wine industry, but the Swiss enjoy the rewards, leaving a limited supply for you and me. They aren’t easy to find in the UK and are maddeningly expensive due to high labour costs (most of the vines are planted on hills – and I mean hills – and nearly everything has to be done excruciatingly by hand). So why seek them out?
The most well-known wines from Switzerland are made from Chasselas, a noble white grape variety that originated around Lake Geneva. Plenty of red grapes are also planted (pinot noir being the most popular) but more importantly, there are more than 200 indigenous grapes used to make wines in Switzerland across a wide variety of terroirs, making for some very interesting flavour profiles and discoveries.
In an increasingly commercialised global industry, it’s refreshing to see so many Swiss wineries run by independent families, such as Jean-René Germanier (whose local Savagnin is delicious) and husband-and-wife duo Jean-Denis and Christine Perrochet, who have pinot noir production in Neuchâtel down to an art with wines full of spices and dried fruits.
Like so many of the more delicious things in life, you’ll have to seek these out – but you’ll be glad you did. Forget chocolate, here are three Swiss wines worth yodelling in the mountains for.
Doral Expression Uvavins Caves de la Côte Morges 2012 £17.40, nickdobsonwines.co.uk Doral is a hybrid cross between Chardonnay and Chasselas and this one has lovely aromatic character.
Lavaux Grand Cru Dezaley Hauts de Pierre Domaine Blaise Duboux 2012, £32, thewinesociety.com A luscious Chasselas from one of the most renowned producers in the Vaud.
Jean-René Germanier Balavaud Heida Savagnin Blanc 2012, £13.60, jrgermanier.ch
Christian Holthausen is a Franco-American specialist based in London. Twitter: @bosiechampagne
