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Nottingham Post
Nottingham Post
National
Lynette Pinchess

We try lunch at Nottingham's Kushi-ya which has Michelin's seal of approval

It's 11.30am and a queue is building outside Kushi-ya. From the outside it's a very modest building with flaking white paintwork and black bars over the ground floor windows down a dead-end Nottingham alleyway.

But through the black door and up the stairs is where the magic happens, honouring Japan’s izakayas - an informal place for eating and drinking. It's another half-hour before opening time but food lovers are eager to bag a seat in the small 33-seater restaurant.

With a Michelin recommendation last October and a rave review from food critic Jay Rayner, it elevated Kushi-ya's appeal. This week came another boost when the Michelin Guide, the world's fabled food bible, awarded the restaurant a Bib Gourmand. The honour is given to eateries featured within the guide that are considered the best value for money.

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Just 20 spots across Great Britain and Ireland received the prestigious accolade ahead of the guide's star ceremony on Monday. When the name Michelin is mentioned, there's a general assumption that it's going to be expensive.

A blow-out at Kushi-ya putting snacks, small plates, skewers, specials, desserts, cocktails and beers to the test could land you with £100 bill at least for two, depending on how much you scoff. But savvy diners who want a taste of Michelin joy without the hefty price tag can bag themselves a much cheaper deal if they get down there at lunchtime and opt for the £15 menu.

For that you'll get one snack, two skewers and rice. Throw in a drink and the whole shebang comes to just over £20. Compare that with typical popty ping pub grub (a starter and main) it's a similar price.

First to arrive in the queue on Friday are Mathilda Branson, of Sherwood, and Chris Chester, from Wakefield. Theatre director Mathilda said: "I've been here quite a long time ago and I've been wanting to bring him for ages. The food's just really good. It's really good value for excellent food. We saw they'd got the Bib Gourmand which is part of the reason we came so early. We'd rather queue than miss out.

"Last year there was the whole Jay Rayner thing, saying it was the best restaurant, and I was saying we definitely have to go but this means it's going to be harder to get in which is why we came at lunchtime. We'll probably have the lunch deal but we might order some extra bits as well.

"The last time I came pre-2020 I remember the crackers being amazing and also the prawn toast - there's nothing I've had here that hasn't been amazing - but those stand out in my memory.

Chris added: "I'm really looking forward to it. She's been telling me about it. I took the day off today so we could come on a weekday lunchtime."

Towards the back of the queue are Simon and Diane Bailey, of Long Eaton. Simon said: "It's the first time we've been here. We read an online review of it from Jay Rayner and thought we'll give that a go. We like all different foods. I didn't know they'd got a Bib Gourmand - I guess that's why there's a queue."

Diane said: "The photographs online looked quite appealing and the prices look appealing. I think we'll just about get in."

As the Council House's Little John starts to bong midday, the door opens and diners file upstairs to the minimalist dining room with simple wooden tables and chairs, wooden beams and skylights. Diners can see the chefs in action in an open kitchen.

We've come specifically to sample the £15 lunch offer although we noticed quite a few of the other customers are ordering off the main menu... especially the soy braised pork shoulder for £16 which comes with lettuce leaf wraps and an array of condiments.

Previously we've been in the evening when the dishes come out like tapas but at lunchtime everything arrives at the same time on a small wooden tray. I have to have the now famous furikake prawn toast or as any self-respecting Nottingham food lover knows it "the best prawn toast ever".

Two rolls with the lightest crispy golden bread envelope big juicy prawns, topped off with Japanese mayo and seasoning with the flavours of nori, sesame and bonito. Everything else on the tray can wait - this heavenly morsel takes priority.

Each skewer comes with two pieces. It makes it ideal if you want to swap with your dining companions to try the different flavours.

The beef drizzled with black garlic mustard comes with a £1 supplement. It's worth it. The meat, slightly pink inside, is brought to life by the tangy mustard. It's been on the menu since Kushi-ya opened in 2018 and there's a very good reason for that.

The second skewer is tiger prawns with the wonderfully described "strange flavour sauce". It tastes like satay but with a spicy kick. We set to work with chopsticks - at time resorting to fingers. I'm sure Michelin inspectors wouldn't condemn this method of eating. A bowl of rice - with or without curry sauce - completes the deal.

Normally I'd be savouring a cocktail (the yuzu margerita is the best) but with four hours of work ahead of me I need a clear head so I'm drinking a pot of green tea (£3).

The deal doesn't include dessert. I'm not the biggest pudding fan but I love Kushi-ya's unusual desserts. We share a slice of matcha cheesecake (£7). A thin biscuit crust is topped with the smoothest creamy filling, the colour of Kermit, and soft meringue. It's beautifully light and doesn't have the usual sicky sweetness of many desserts. To sum up, it's divine.

It brings my bill to £26 plus a 10% discretionary service charge, which is well-deserved for the slick delivery. We're done within the hour and as we leave there's still people queuing. With the latest accolade that queue is not going to get any shorter.

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