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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK

'We had to rediscover our heritage': Titti Qvarnström on new Nordic cuisine

Titti Qvarnström stands behind her restaurant, Bloom in the Park
Titti Qvarnström’s Bloom in the Park is one of Skåne’s foodie highlights. Photograph: Christopher Hunt/Christopher Hunt

My favourite ingredients are locally sourced, be they vegetables or livestock. It’s important for me to stay in touch with farmers – it gives a different understanding of the food. At Bloom in the Park our menu changes depending on the seasons.

My earliest memory of food is foraging in the woods of Skåne with my dad. He was a biology teacher and knew what plants could and could not be eaten.

The Skåne region is where I grew up. It means so much to me with its nature, vegetation, rocks, ocean and landscape. Through my food, I’m able to share a small part of it with people all over the world.

The best coffee is served on my veranda. But I also love trying out new places around Möllevångstorget square in Malmö. There is something for every taste: a black coffee for next to nothing, or a barista-brewed coffee.

A good food experience does not just involve food – it’s also down to the people, the surroundings and season.

Canola fields in Skane's rural hinterland
Canola fields in Skåne’s rural hinterland. Photograph: Miriam Preis

The new Nordic cuisine was formed by a generation of chefs who never had a proper food culture of their own. We had to dig back in time in order to rediscover our Nordic heritage. Instead of redoing what once existed, a new Nordic gastronomy formed, with local produce as the base.

On a day off I work a lot in my garden, where I mostly grow herbs and edible flowers for the restaurant, but also cucumber, tomatoes, strawberries and potatoes for myself.

The best Swedish food is served at restaurant Rebell in Malmö. It is a locals’ favourite that serves delicacies such as halloumi cheese made in Skåne, duck and entrecote.

Micro producers I love to visit are the fish smokehouses on the west coast in both Kattvik by the seaside resort Båstad, and Stora Hult close to the city of Ängelholm. Lunch consists simply of smoked mackerel on a piece of bread – delicious! In the south: Hällåkra vingård, a vineyard which also serves great food. And in north-western Skåne is GoaGård, an ecological farm and shop that produces the best goat cheese.

Foraging in Skåne is full of options due to the shifting landscape. The coast, woods and fields offer different vegetation depending on the season. At the moment you will find amazing seaweed on the west coast of Skåne.

A road trip through the beautiful province of Österlen is a must – make sure to stop by the unique Wanås sculpture park. Book a couple of nights at Drakamöllan’s country hotel, where the restaurant serves great food.

I love a meal at Malmö’s B.A.R restaurant, which has a great selection of wines and modern Nordic cuisine that includes locally sourced seafood, meat and vegetables.

Discover new Nordic cuisine in Skåne

Skåne is one of Sweden’s top culinary destinations, plan your visit with Sunvil

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