What happens when a 5-star chef struck with a climate change conscience, drops out of corporate kitchens and opens his own passion project aiming at a carbon footprint as close to Neolithic as he can get it?
Here's Haoma, a residential restaurant named after a divine plant venerated by ancient human societies, located in the nether regions of Suk Soi 31, that "grows its own" ingredients in its quasi-rural greenhouse garden and doubles as "NutriChef", healthy meals delivery service.
Sounds worthy but grim? Au contraire: the design is sustainable chic, the music sultry jazz, and the cuisine uber haute.
Being ingredient-driven inspires epicurean ingenuity that unfolds in two tasting menus of 5- (9 choices/85 mins) and 7-courses (11 choices/105 mins) (no a la carte) plus amuse bouche and petit fours.
A 7-year "veteran" of Starwood hotels, Deepanker Khosla, 28, existentially conceived and realised his ideal eatery, had Singaporean architect buddy Actim draw up the plans, and set to work on the intestinal plumbing for the state-of-the-art hydroponics, aquaponics and soil-growth setup himself.
"It's the sum total of the laws of attraction and sacred geometry," he summarises vaguely mystically.
With its closed-circuit nutrient-enrichened water treatment and rows of plants rising into the tree canopy (no exaggeration), Haoma is a botanical wonderland of edible plants (Indian borage, Japanese mizna, German dill, Mexican coriander, Thai basil etc). Plus 800 grouper and tilapia fish. Now they're working on root veggies as they home in on their 0km food-sourcing target. Even with wagyu and poultry (they're not complete tree huggers), they only go 30km tops.
Says Haoma's sous-chef Tarun Bhatia (Southeast Asia S. Pellegrino Young Chef 2016): "What we grow gives us tremendous scope to create without culinary boundaries, marrying flavours and modern techniques in ways that highly concentrate taste and contrast texture."
An amuse bouche appears as a micro forest scene revolving around tuber-like egg white stuffed with smoked hollandaise, resting in hazelnut & burnt butter crumble. If this was naturally growing, it would be as manically hunted as truffle.
An appetizer proposes a ceviche of wonderfully complementary 'tiger milk' (citrus) marinated ice apple and scallop with avocado, green mango, citrus sauce and crunchy quinoa. Eat your heart out Acurio.
Tarun quips that the inspiration for Savoury Magnum comes from Kwality Walls via 7-Eleven. Frozen chicken liver blended with wine and spices is coated with 100% cocoa. Cocoa butter coated crushed mixed nuts form the stick. A cuboid of citrus-coated, carrot-covered pumpkin and a sauce of several citruses complement and contrast. Warning: it's even more addictive than the lolly.
You see "fish & chips" and think capitulation but it's deconstructed and reconstructed to heighten that fish 'n' chips kick. With green chilli sauce for gherkin, lettuce puree for mushy peas, and crunchy-umami beer-based batter, it's haute too.
Boring "sandwich" refers not to a chip butty but a split duck/chicken medallion served with seared leek, potato puree and cabbage braised in duck fat then pan-fried. Call it the ultimate ultra-modern Sunday lunch.
Nor does Haoma stint on desserts, with two included in each menu. Coconut meringue filled with corn parfait with passion fruit sauce is a delight. Caramelised milk bread with home-grown Jerusalem artichoke (a Thai first?) with woodnut ice cream and sanchoke chips, revelation. Kombucha (fermented, effervescent tea) popsicle, pineapple cake, compressed fruits wraps things up nicely.
Cocktails, developed in collaboration with Operation Dagger, Singapore, and wines are well up to snuff.
Sunday Brunch – "Haoma House Party" – kicks off July 1.
Open 6-11 pm.
Tel. 061 460 5441.
https://www.facebook.com/HaomaBKK
