Jan. 27--It's strange to think of any restaurant along Randolph Street as being nostalgic; one comes to this west-of-Loop restaurant row to check out what's exciting and of the moment. But strolling into Vivo (838 W. Randolph St., 312-733-3379) for a Chicago Restaurant Week lunch stirred a few memories.
There was a time when, except for the venerable Barney's Market Pub on the corner of Randolph and Halsted, there was no dining scene. And then the trio of Dan Krasny, Howard Davis and Jerry Kleiner opened Vivo in a check-that-address-again location, and the Randolph Restaurant Row, though we didn't know it at the time, was born.
That was September 1991, meaning that eight months from now, this pioneering restaurant will turn 25.
The look hasn't changed, but the place hardly looks dated. Exposed brick, perforated-metal bar shelves along one wall and stacks of wine bottles along the opposite wall, pinpoint spotlights shining down from an open-to-the-rafters ceiling -- this is a look that a new restaurant might easily adopt today. Vivo's most unique feature is still its best: The elevator-shaft table raised above the dining-room floor, still one of the most requested tables in town.
Stylishly presented rustic food has been Vivo's card over the years, and continues today. Off the three-course ($22) lunch menu, start with the day's soup, mixed-green salad or my choice, a bright and light Caesar salad with Parmesan crisps and anchovy vinaigrette (actual anchovies supplied on request). There are four main-course options, including the day's ravioli. Good-sized appetites should get the Italian sausage sandwich, stuffed into crusty Italian bread smeared with ancho aioli, and served with roasted potatoes.
I'm a sucker for a good eggplant Parmesan, and Vivo obliges with breadcrumb- and cheese-baked eggplant slices about a half-inch thick, served over fusilli in tomato-basil sauce. Eggplant parm, you taste so good.
Gelato for dessert, raspberry or lemon.
The dinner menu (three courses, $33) includes that Caesar salad, along with gnocchi Vivo (with black truffles and Parnesan cream) and main courses that include beef filet and grilled salmon.
Stop by Vivo sometime, if only to pay respect to the restaurant that started it all.
Phil Vettel is a Tribune critic
I, and other Tribune writers, will be filing restaurant reports every day during restaurant week, so please check back. The ninth annual Chicago Restaurant Week runs through Feb. 4. For a list of participants, menus and online reservations, visit www.eatitupchicago.com
