In Suan Phung, Ratchaburi's westernmost district, there are two border-patrol police bases that are well-known destinations among off-road enthusiasts, one at Khao Krachom and the other at Huai Khok Mu. The first was featured in this column almost four years ago. Today, I'm telling you about the latter.
Huai Khok Mu is about 17km south of Khao Krachom. However, the public roads that link the two sites do not run in a straight line along the Thai-Myanmar border; therefore, in practice, they are 35km or so apart. Unlike at Khao Krachom, the dirt road to Huai Khok Mu is not so rough or so long. Still, thanks to the wilderness on both sides of the access road and the mesmerising scenery at the border-patrol police base, this route can be another good choice for your future weekend excursions.
My friends and I went to Huai Khok Mu in early March. With limited time, we didn't bike up the hill to the border-patrol police base but drove there instead. We reached the place in the evening.
After asking one of the two policemen stationed there for permission, we rushed to the scenic lookout point to enjoy the sunset and walked back to the parking lot to pitch our tents before it got too dark. The task took a bit longer than usual because of a friendly and overly curious puppy who constantly ran around, and even through, our legs while we were trying to set up the camp. Apart from the puppy and its mum, and a few cats and a chicken, there was nobody in the parking area, as it was a weekday.
The next morning, after we finished our quick breakfast and were preparing the bikes for the ride out of the mountains, one of the policemen came to say hello. During our conversation, he told us about a military unit on the other side of the border and how the Myanmar soldiers hike through the forest to the Thai side to buy supplies.
I looked beyond the policeman's back and spotted a teenager walking into the base. On his head sat a baby langur. Before I even asked, the officer told me that the fellow was a worker, and that the langur's name is Si Nuan. The young animal was recently brought here by a group of Myanmar soldiers and given to the boy who has been taking care of it.
I asked about Si Nuan's mother, knowing that normally a mother langur would never leave her young offspring. The answer, as expected, was that it was shot dead.
Soon after the policeman left to do his work and we were starting to pack up, somebody came over to join us, free-falling off the branch of a small tree nearby, onto the fly sheet which covered our tents. It was not the puppy. It was Si Nuan!
The playful baby langur quickly climbed back to the treetop for another jump. The flysheet served as an airbag that absorbed the impact of the fall, and it's not difficult to imagine the fun Si Nuan was enjoying. The langur did more than 20 jumps, sometimes pretending to land on my head when I got too close trying to take pictures of it.
Si Nuan showed no sign of tiredness, but we needed to go, so we cleared the camp and got ready for the ride down to the low land. Before leaving, we gave the policeman a box of instant noodles. It wasn't worth anything in terms of money, but the officer said it meant so much that we cared about the well-being of people who work in remote areas, and insisted that we take a photo with him in full uniform.
The morning bike ride was fast and delightful, leaving us enough time to check out nearby waterfalls such as Kao Chon and Kaeng Som Maeo (where the peafowl photo was taken), as well as the Bo Khlueng hot spring, before hitting the highway back to Bangkok.
Well, see you here again soon. Until then, if you have questions, news or biking insights you wish to share, please feel free to send an email to pongpetm@bangkokpost.co.th or go to the Freewheel Bangkok community page on Facebook.
Pongpet Mekloy is the Bangkok Post's travel editor and a mountain bike freak.
GPS coordinates: 13°25'57.40" N 99°12'14.63" E
Trail condition: On- and off-road.
Distance: The access road to Huai Khok Mu is 8km long. If you crave more distance and do not mind riding on-road, you can start from Kao Chon waterfall or anywhere you like before the beginning of the dirt track.
Getting there: From Ratchaburi, follow Road 3208 to the town of Chat Pa Wai. From there continue westward via Road 3087 to the Phu Pha Phueng Y-Junction where you should shift onto Road 4068, the one on the left. By then you would see signs along the way, telling you the directions to Huai Khok Mu, Kao Chon waterfall, Kaeng Som Maeo and other attractions in the area. In case, you somehow missed those signs, either just pull over and ask the locals or follow the provided GPS coordinates.
Parking: Space is available at the border patrol police base.
Food & drinks: There is a makeshift shop next to the base. It may be closed on weekdays so make sure you bring some supplies.
What your family can enjoy while waiting: They can take in the view and play with the dogs.
Accommodation: Camping is the only option if you wish to stay overnight.
