Karl Lagerfeld’s blockbuster shows for Chanel were as subtle as they were spellbinding, with the German designer transforming his stage at the Grand Palais into everything from a melting glacier to a fully stocked supermarket.
But in the hands of his successor, Virginie Viard, it seems a new, more subdued era for the house is under way. Highlighting the significance of form, silhouette and tone she unveiled her latest collection on a contoured set, with guests taking their seats on white bleachers undulating around a mirrored catwalk.
In her notes, Viard confirmed a “no- frills” mood for autumn/winter 2020, with “a very simple, very pure momentum. Romanticism but without any flourishes”.
Her collection was predominantly monochrome, with the exception of the occasional flourish of pale green and raspberry. Perhaps thinking about wardrobe classics, Viard unveiled an ode to the white shirt with scalloped collars and ruffles among the options on offer. Chanel’s definitive bouclé jacket also played a starring role, including an oversized style embroidered with the house’s logo and a cropped, boxy version presented in classic black.
There was no definitive era or obvious theme to hold this collection together. Instead a freedom and fluidity of ideas dominated. Among Viard’s reference points were Gabrielle Chanel’s race horse and a photograph of the late Lagerfeld wearing a striped suit with riding boots.
This equestrian influence crept into the collection via button-side jodhpurs which were worn open and presented alongside cropped jackets. Footwear included a play on Lagerfeld’s boots, with a turn-over knee-high style among the options for next season.
A spirit of the Eighties was also apparent, with skirts slashed to the thigh and a dedication to sheer tights. This reference was displayed most explicitly by Gigi Hadid, who closed the show wearing hot pants and a crucifix in a look reminiscent of Madonna’s Like A Prayer heyday. Today’s show was live-streamed to audiences across the globe marking a first for the Chanel brand.
