On Sunday 5 July, at the same time Greeks were going to the polls to vote in their referendum, we were driving along the Peloponnesian coast on the way to Kalamata airport. My family had just spent the most glorious fortnight in Stoupa, our first visit to Greece for some 10 years.
We had caught a few glimpses of the BBC World News. Apparently we were holidaying in a country racked in crisis, its people desperate and enraged.
Really? What was it that none of us – nor any of the other contented tourists – could see? Were we all so wrapped up in our selfish enjoyment that we couldn’t see the chaos around us?
The previous evening, for our farewell meal, we had sat in our favourite of the several excellent tavernas we’d tried, at a table overlooking the beach. The sea was that kind of ever-shifting, shimmering blue that only Greek seas seem to possess, the sun was slowly descending in a red blaze in front of us, and to the side the towering Taygetos mountains embraced us. It was heart-stoppingly beautiful … in a way that must have stopped the hearts of many thousands of other people over many thousands of years.
That night, we had been served by younger family members of the taverna, the reason being that the older ones were taking part in the annual charity 10km race they had themselves initiated in 2010. The finishing line was on the beach, amidst fireworks, music, applause and noisy celebration. This year, hundreds of people of all ages from the local villages had taken part. Many jumped into the sea to cool off, joining all the delighted kids still larking in the shallow waters. If ever there was a sign of a community at peace and at play, this was surely it.
Food was local, home-grown and plentiful, from gardens or family fields. Each taverna made its own olive oil.
Above all – for the tourist at least – there is the assurance that the Greeks are Masters of Hospitality. Nothing is too much trouble, very little causes offence, all requests are tolerated, all imbecilities are forgiven, nobody is hassled, everybody is given space, kindness seems obligatory, and the tourist is always treated with courtesy and respect (even when undeserved). It must be just about the easiest place to enjoy a holiday anywhere.
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