Wherever you tread in Central Asia, you’ll be following in the footsteps of some of the greatest travellers of the past, as imposing architectural sites throughout the region testify. Amid the history and stirring landscapes are several controversial states – inscrutable and relatively unknown to today’s travellers – but things are gradually changing.
Uzbekistan: domes and desert caravans
Geographically and culturally at the heart of Central Asia, Uzbekistan has many of the region’s heavy-hitter sights, from the walkable old city of Bukhara, filled with trading domes and meandering alleys; to the former slave trade capital of Khiva, an atmospheric mud-brick desert city with many excellent museums. But there’s much more to Uzbekistan than Silk Road history; chances are you’ll also meet some remarkable people. In the morning you could be watching a blacksmith engraving a dagger, in the afternoon meeting a photographer in their studio, and in the evening chatting to a chef over the national dish of plov, a colourful rice pilaf cooked in layers. First and foremost, Uzbeks are impressive hosts.
“Every journey to Central Asia is a quest for Samarkand”, wrote journalist Geoffrey Moorhouse in 1990 – and, for many travellers, this mantra still stands today. For sheer wow factor, Samarkand is hard to beat, with its soaring sand-coloured minarets and madrassas (schools or colleges) clad in majolica tiles.
It’s here that you’ll find the iconic Registan, described by Lord Curzon as “the noblest square in the world”, and the Gur-e-Amir, final resting place of nomadic conqueror Tamerlane. Along with the Shah-i-Zinda necropolis and the Bibi Khanym mosque, Samarkand is home to some of the greatest spiritual and architectural wonders of the world. It also once belonged to the ancient Sogdiana civilisation, which at times included parts of present-day neighbouring Tajikistan.
Samarkand lies tantalisingly close to Tajikistan, a country that offers fantastic outdoor adventure. To the east, it boasts one of the wildest places in the world, the High Pamirs, where “seven thousanders” (mountains over 7,000m), shadow the Pamir Highway, one of the world’s most challenging unpaved roads.
Even the Uzbek capital, Tashkent – where you’ll find Chorsu Bazaar, selling everything from Russian yoghurts to Turkish chocolates, as well as green parks full of monuments, and small boutiques selling silk and jewellery – hints at mountain scenery, sitting just two hours away from Chimgan ski resort.
Tashkent is a creative city with small galleries and outdoor markets selling framed paintings. Celebrated artist Lekim Ibragimov, best known for his mega canvas One Thousand Angels and One, moved here from his home city of Almaty. “Coming to Uzbekistan was like coming home. It looked non-Soviet, and a little like 1001 Nights with its eastern architecture,” he says of Tashkent.
And it’s here that the country’s political reforms are tentatively unfolding. Uzbekistan’s new president, Shavkat Mirziyoyev, just one year into the job, has started derailing the black market in currency and has begun reforming the cotton-picking industry, particularly around forced and child labour; while welcoming human rights campaigners and relaxing media policies. Change is afoot.
Kyrgyzstan: Soviet style, mountains and lakes
Bishkek, capital of Kyrgyzstan, is a curious city surrounded by the impressive Tien Shan mountain range. Soviet power built it, and you are reminded of this fact early on – the international airport code is still FRU, standing for Frunze, the city’s name between 1926 and 1991. Behind Ala-Too, the city’s main square, is a giant statue of Lenin, his concrete coat tails aloft behind him; and on the outskirts of town, Belarusian-made trolley cars still rattle along. As in Tashkent, Russian is still spoken by almost everyone, but the city is modernising. There are lively cafes, such as Sierra, serving decent coffee, and great restaurants, such as Navat, offer a comfortable modern take on a traditional chaikhana teahouse, serving pilafs and noodles.
But most people who come to Kyrgyzstan come for the wild landscape. The Kyrgyz steppe is staggeringly beautiful and remote; grasslands dotted with yurt camps, jailoos (summer pastures) and lakes. To the east is Issyk Kul, Central Asia’s “beach”, which comes to life in the summer months with pedalos and paragliders taking off from its shores. Hundreds of Kazakh, Russian and Kyrgyz tourists come here to relax, and for outsiders it offers a fascinating slice of central Asian life.
Kazakhstan and Turkmenistan: petrodollars and petroglyphs
Despite being the world’s ninth-largest country, Kazakhstan remains a blank on the map in the minds of many. In terms of visitors, this is changing slowly, as the country – rich on petrodollars – begins to invest in its tourism sector. Top attractions include the Norman Foster-designed architecture in the new capital, Astana; the pastel-coloured coffee shops, opera houses and ballet theatres of the former capital, Almaty; and the skiing opportunities at Shymbulak ski resort – all a far stretch from the city’s humble origins as a military outpost for the Tsars.
Almaty remains Kazakhstan’s most appealing and accessible city, and while it may be on the move with construction constantly rejigging its landscape, it also benefits from a serene mountain backdrop, sitting almost at the foothills of the Tien Shan mountains. Peaks of up to 4,000m provide a natural barrier against the infamous buran, the biting wind that travels down from Siberia. Then there are the petroglyphs (rock carvings) at Tamgaly, north-west of Almaty, where 5,000 Unesco world heritage-listed bronze-age carvings – depicting idols and hunting scenes – offer a glimpse into ancient rituals and sacrificial offerings.
To the south of Kazakhstan is Turkmenistan, a secretive, authoritarian country sitting on the world’s fifth-largest reserves of natural gas and oil. Visitor visas are hard to come by – especially for journalists, so travel guides on the region are rare (consult gov.uk for advice). Tourists who do manage to find their way through the red tape find an odd, mysterious place – it is infamously difficult to get under the country’s skin. Offering clues is the Turkmen Carpet Museum, home to the world’s largest hand-woven carpet; the Walk of Health, a steep concrete stairway winding up a mountain designed to encourage exercise; and Darvaza, a flaming crater located at a remote spot that looks like a gateway to hell. Merv, one of the most important oasis cities on the Silk Road, is the other must-see sight, with the remains of Sufi shrines, fortified walls and ancient trade roads. A dash of imagination, or a decent guide, will bring it all to life.
Jules Verne offers truly memorable tours and travel experiences through Central Asia. Try their Silk Road Express, Golden Road to Samarkand and Peaks & Petroglyphs for more
