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Tribune News Service
Tribune News Service
Business
Brad Bergholdt

Under the Hood: The basics on replacing your brakes

Q: I recently took my car in for an oil change and was told I'll soon need to replace the brakes. I purchased this car new _ it's my first _ and I'm not sure what to expect. What are the things I should look out for to ensure I get the best job possible and am not taken advantage of?

_Marissa I.

A: No problem, Marissa!

Front brakes typically wear out at 30,000-60,000 miles, depending on driving habits, driving conditions, vehicle design and brake pad type. Rear brakes often go as far as 60,000-100,000 miles because they don't work quite as hard. Brakes on hybrid and electric vehicles typically last much longer as regeneration does much of the work in slowing the car down.

In most cases, you'll know the front and possibly rear disc brakes have worn thin because you'll hear sensor squealing. This annoying, nail-on-a-blackboard sound may be either repetitive or continuous and will be heard whether the brakes are applied or not. The sound will likely change slightly as the brakes are applied.

Some vehicles feature warning lights, which will illuminate to indicate brake pad thickness has worn thin.

If the front or rear brake pads or rear shoes wear down to the metal backing _ ouch! _ you might hear a grating/grinding noise when braking.

During a vehicle's first brake job, it's likely that all that will be needed is replacement of the disc brake pads. Unless brake pulsation, excessive rust or heat issues are evident, the brake rotors (the discs that are visible through the wheel spokes) should not need machining, a process used to clean up their friction surfaces. This may not be the case upon subsequent brake jobs as the rotors wear or become damaged. Brake calipers, which are the clamping devices containing a hydraulic piston, typically last 10 years or even the life of the car. Any place that encourages these to be renewed sooner, unless leaking or binding is evident, should receive an icy stare!

It would be nice if whoever performs the job offers you a choice of brake pad type, as pads may be optimized for high performance, quiet operation, long life or minimal visible dusting. Typically, brakes that stop the best wear out more quickly and make a lot of dust. Long-lasting brakes are often noisy and don't stop as well.

And don't shop for price! I'd consider either the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) pads, or perhaps a ceramic formulation. These cost a bit more but offer a great blend of performance with less visible dusting.

As a vehicle ages, it's likely the brake rotors (and rear drums on some vehicles) will wear or distort, requiring attention. Material can be machined away to clean up and true the friction surface, but only to a point. There's a legal limit for how deeply a rotor or drum can be machined before the part becomes too thin to properly dissipate heat. That's what brakes do: convert kinetic (moving) energy of the vehicle into heat.

Too much brake use on steep grades can damage brake parts and lead to possible loss of brake function due to pad material gassing or brake fluid boil. Selecting a lower transmission gear provides engine holdback, taking load off the brakes on long downgrades. Renewal of brake fluid every five years is likely not listed in a vehicle's maintenance schedule but is a good idea as doing so will minimize corrosion of expensive anti-lock braking system components and reduce the chance of fluid boiling.

Just about all auto service facilities perform brake service. If additional parts or services are recommended beyond simple pad replacement, ask to be shown why, or consider getting a second opinion.

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