Jan. 05--We have rented a farmhouse in Tuscany. It comes with a cat named Calabria, an herb garden and views of the rolling Tuscan hills -- as well as the vineyards, olive groves, woods and villages that make this area one of the world's most popular tourist destinations.
In the winter, however, which is the off season, Tuscany does not come with tourists. This year it has come with a mild winter, too, so roses are blooming and, on sunny mornings, we are able to take our coffee outside.
In the nearby village Badia a Passignano there is an abbey where Galileo taught mathematics. There also are three excellent restaurants and we walk there to dinner -- but only sometimes, because the restaurants are often closed. No tourists.
On most days we read and write, cook, build wood fires and take walks. On these we have seen a fox, a badger and a pack of wild boar. (Wild boar is on the menu in all three restaurants.)
Or we drive to Florence, which is a half-hour away and has the richest collections of Renaissance art in the world. Much of this is found in the Uffizi Gallery, although its most famous piece, Michelangelo's David, is in the Accademia Gallery. In summer you need to make reservations well in advance for both places. In winter, we just walk up. No reservations. No lines. No wait.
Or we drive south to Siena. It was a major banking center in the 13th century and thus of wealth and art. Its town center, called il Campo, is a vast space where people gather and, twice a year, furious horse races are held. Siena also has world-class museums. Again, there are no waits.
Or we visit one of the lovely Tuscan hill towns such as San Gimignano and eat in a local restaurant. Often we are the only tourists.
Peter Ferry is a freelance reporter and author of "Old Heart."
