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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Mary Novakovich

Tudor-style inns, tea plantations and Malaysia’s oldest forest: discover the glorious treasures of the Cameron Highlands

Tourist on the Cameron Highlands green hill tea plantation its unique nature in Malesia.
Another green world: the Cameron Highlands are a lush landscape of tea plantations, fruit farms and tropical forests Photograph: Rafal Cichawa/PR IMAGE

Prepare for sensory overload of the most thrilling kind in the Cameron Highlands. Here in Malaysia’s biggest and highest hill station, the air is deliciously cool and scented by lavender farms, strawberry fields and blossom-covered orchards. In this incredibly fertile land, the most captivating sight is the vivid green of the tea plantations that carpet the region’s gently rolling hills. And in the midst of it all is the magical Mossy Forest, one of the oldest in Malaysia and a lush green world of hiking trails and thickly wooded peaks. In this agreeably tropical climate at 1,500 metres above sea level, temperatures range between 10C and 25C throughout the year – perfect for relaxed exploring.

Named after the Scottish explorer William Cameron, who surveyed the area in 1885, the Cameron Highlands became a haven for the British in Malaysia from the late 19th century onwards. The British have certainly left their mark – don’t be surprised to see Tudor-style inns and cottages, golf courses and, of course, tea. Lots of it.

The tea industry is the heart of the Cameron Highlands, which is about a three-hour drive north from Kuala Lumpur, and a visit to a tea plantation is a must. Even getting there is part of the adventure if you take part in a 4x4 off-road tour, and you can join day trips to the plantations from the Malaysian capital.

Stop for tea and scones

One of the most impressive is Boh Sungei Palas Tea Plantation in the state of Pahang – once you’ve toured the plantation and strolled along its inviting trails, you can soak up sublime views from the 6-metre overhanging platform of the cafe. Carry on the venerable tradition of ordering cream-slathered scones and freshly picked strawberries to go with your tea while gazing at dense rows of tea bushes lining the undulating hills. The Boh plantation was founded by Scotsman John Archibald Russell in 1929, and it’s still being run by the same family.

Combine food and nature with visits to some of the many farms that make up the natural bounty of the Cameron Highlands. The fields around Brinchang, the highest town in Pahang, are dotted with strawberry farms where you can pick your own fabulously fresh berries before taking in the scenery at a cafe.

With the large number of fruit farms and orchards in the region, it’s not surprising that bee farms are making the most of these flower-rich landscapes and turning themselves into fun family attractions.

When evening falls, wander around the stalls at the night market in Brinchang, snacking on moreish Malaysian street food and soaking up the lively atmosphere.

Majestic Mossy Forest

This will whet your appetite for the green star of the Cameron Highlands, the 200m-year-old Mossy Forest just to the north of Brinchang. It’s a hikers’ dream, with more than 900 hectares of forest in every shade of green, from lichen-covered, fern-flanked trees to the springy moss carpeting the ground that in some places rises to altitudes of more than 2,000 metres. The birdlife is just as mesmerising, giving you chances to spot eagles, flycatchers and buzzards swooping in the skies above you. Look out for clouds of butterflies and giant tropical insects as you roam through a landscape that looks like something out of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s The Lost World.

There are trails in the Mossy Forest to suit every level of hiker, from laid-back rambler to hardcore trekker – although there is also the option to take a ride in a Land Cruiser and experience one of the highest mountains accessible by road in south-east Asia.

Breathtaking trails

If you’re a seasoned hiker and want to test yourself, hire a licensed guide who will take you along some of Mossy Forest’s most challenging trails, including the route to the highest point in the Cameron Highlands, the 2,100-metre Mount Irau. Wooden walkways in some parts of the Mossy Forest make light work of hiking, and one of the easiest routes is the short but sweet walk to the gushing waters of the Parit waterfall. Another popular route leads you to the larger Robinson Falls in the midst of luscious and soothing greenery. Many of the trails reward you with breathtaking views as you trek and scramble your way through the forest, at times passing indigenous Orang Asli villages.

While you’re in Brinchang, explore some of the region’s cultural treasures. Skirting its southern edges on a small hilltop is Sam Poh Temple, a large, four-tiered Buddhist temple complex that glistens with golden statues of Buddhist deities and teachers. Behind its brightly painted red and gold facade, you’ll find a space for peace and quiet contemplation where you can learn about Buddhist traditions. Take a walk through the complex’s expansive gardens and follow the signs to the upper tiers to enjoy serene views of the misty tea plantations and deep green valleys.

For more information and to start planning your Malaysian adventure in the Cameron Highlands, visit ba.com/malaysia

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