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Tribune News Service
Tribune News Service
Lifestyle
Lee Svitak Dean

Tuck that fish in a grilled taco

Fish tacos hit my radar in the late '80s, popping up in beachside spots in San Diego. Popular on the West Coast, I couldn't imagine them finding a home in the Midwest.

How times have changed. Fish tacos are, if not everywhere, then almost everywhere.

Much as I love them today, I'm not a big fan of the battered, deep-fried version of fish that serves as the mainstay for most of these tacos.

Why would you drop what amounts to delicate fish into a vat of hot oil? Wouldn't pan-fried fish, sans batter, be better?

Turns out there's yet another alternative: grilled. In this recipe, it's tilapia, but it could be walleye or any mild-flavored fish _ or even shrimp, which I have to say makes a fine substitute.

Whichever is used, a light dusting of spices makes a difference before the protein is finished over a hot fire, then topped with ranch dressing (which predates the '80s by more than a decade) and a radicchio slaw.

You can grill this slaw (radicchio, beet and pineapple), though I wondered, as I ran outside and in several times while cooking, why I took this step when the ungrilled version tastes just fine. My advice: Grilled slaw is best done in advance, and if you lack time, prep it without the heat.

These are my kind of recipes, with adaptability built in.

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