Tributes have been paid to Joe Brown, the British climber regarded as an outstanding pioneer, who has died aged 89.
The mountaineer, whose extraordinary skill and dexterity earned him nicknames such as “the Master” and the “human fly”, died peacefully at home in Llanberis, Wales, having been ill for some time.
Most active in the 1950s and 60s, Brown established a number of new routes in Snowdonia and the Peak District, which were at the leading edge of the hard grades.
In 1955, aged 24, he and fellow climber George Band made history after scaling Kanchenjunga’s south-west face, one of the Himalayas’ most difficult peaks, and the third highest mountain in the world. In 1956, he made the first ascent of the west summit of the Muztagh Tower in the Karakoram mountain range.
Born in Manchester, he trained as an apprentice plumber and general builder, and together with his early climbing partner, Don Whillans, was among a new breed of post-war climbers from working-class backgrounds.
He was well known for his televised rock climbs in the 1960s, including scaling the Old Man of Hoy, a Scottish sea stack, in 1967 with Ian McNaught-Davis and Chris Bonington.
Brown moved to Llanberis, where he opened a climbing shop in 1966, which became one of three. He contributed to new types of climbing protection by creating some of the first “nuts” by drilling out the thread of the nuts and putting a sling through the centre.
He was made a CBE in the 2011 New Year honours for services to rock climbing and mountaineering.
The Mountain Heritage Trust said: “We are deeply saddened to learn that Joe Brown has passed away. A legend and inspiration to so many, we are proud to have had him as a patron.”
Stephen Venables, the first Briton to climb Everest without oxygen support, tweeted: “Very sad to hear that Joe Brown died last night. What an amazing life. Kanchenjunga, Muztagh Tower, treasure hunting in the jungle … but for most of us his greatest gift is the legacy of peerless rock climbs: Vector, Vember, Right Unconquerable, Shrike, Cemetery Gates…”
Alan Hinkes, the only Briton to have climbed all 14 of the world’s mountains over 8,000m, tweeted: “Great rock climber, mountaineer, fly fisherman, raconteur, lovely man. Hard as nails. Wicked sense of humour. Poss world’s greatest rock climber and superb mountaineer.”
Announcing his death, Joe Brown Shops said: “It is with profound sadness that we have to share with you the passing of Joe Brown. He left us peacefully at 10pm last night. He was at home with his family.
“In our hearts, Joe will continue to climb evermore.”
