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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Joanne O'Connor

Travel tips: Abruzzo, and this week’s best deals

Breathtaking: ruins of Rocca di Calascio in L’Aquila.
Breathtaking: ruins of Rocca di Calascio in L’Aquila. Photograph: Alamy

Take me there: Abruzzo

Why go?
Squeezed between the Majella mountains and the Adriatic coastline, the province of Abruzzo comes as a breath of fresh air after the tourist-clogged beaches of the Italian Riviera. Its wild national parks, hilltop hamlets and refreshingly down-to-earth seaside resorts are inexplicably overlooked by foreign travellers. With cheap flights into Pescara (Ryanair), appealing new places to stay and a reputation for the best food in Italy, it’s unlikely to stay that way.

What to do
Abruzzo has no shortage of atmospheric medieval hilltop towns, such as the beautifully preserved Castel Del Monte, which is close to the spectacular mountain-top fortress at Rocca di Calascio, with its breathtaking views of the Appenines (roccacalascio.info). Hike through alpine meadows full of wild flowers in the Majella National Park (parcomajella.it). If you’re feeling adventurous, try rafting on the Aventino river (abruzzorafting.com) or spend a night in a mountain refuge bear-spotting (ecotur.org). The Adriatic coastline is famous for its trabocchi – spindly wooden fishing pontoons perched on stilts above the sea – and its sandy beaches. Two of the best are at pine-fringed Pineto and the old fishing town of Vasto.

Where to stay
Fireflies & Figs is a gorgeous new “glampsite” in the Majella hills, with accommodation in comfy canvas yurts (from £110 a night B&B, firefliesandfigs.co.uk). The English owners run al fresco film nights.

Where to eat
A handful of trabocchi have been converted into restaurants: Cavallucio near Rocca San Giovanni is one of the best. For authentic Abruzzi home-cooking try the quirky Vineria di Salnitro in an old olive mill in the hills of Chieti province (+39 328 392 0553).

Insider tip
“San Vito Chietino is a small buzzy town on the coast with some great cheap eats,” says Jono Green of Fireflies & Figs. “You pay €5 for a plate piled with calamari, followed by the best ice cream in Abruzzo from gelateria Copa de Dora.

Give me a break

Home Boutique hotel in Bradford on Avon A rundown riverside pub in Bradford on Avon has been transformed into a boutique hotel with 14 Nordic-inspired bedrooms (think crisp white linen and shades of grey) and a restaurant headed up by former River Cottage chef Tom Blake. Timbrell’s Yard is a sister hotel to the popular Swan at Wedmore and the White Hart in Somerton. Doubles from £110 (timbrellsyard.com).

A bedroom at Timbrell's Yard
Nordic but nice: Timbrell’s Yard. Photograph: PR

Away The Sound of Music revisited It’s 50 years since The Sound of Music was released and to celebrate Wexas Travel has launched a new four-day tour to Salzburg. Follow in the footsteps of Julie Andrews and the Von Trapp family with visits to film locations including Leopoldskron Palace and the Gazebo at Hellbrunn. The trip costs from £660pp, including accommodation in the five-star Hotel Sacher, a guided tour, and flights (wexas.com).

The hills are alive: Julie Andrews.
The hills are alive: Julie Andrews. Photograph: Allstar

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