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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Sam Haddad

Training for the slopes: six of the best Eurostar snow breaks

Female skier stood at top of slope admiring viewGettyImages-164298119
Travel on a Friday to enjoy Saturday’s empty slopes. Photograph: Peter Cade/Getty Images

Travelling with skiing or snowboarding equipment can be a bit of an effort, particularly if you’re swapping between buses, trains and planes. Take a simpler, more direct route to the Alps by hopping on the Eurostar at London St Pancras International or Ashford. Arrive on a Friday night and you can even take advantage of a quiet Saturday on the slopes, when the package deals have their changeover day.

From parties on the piste to chilled-out kid-friendly zones, these six Alpine options – all easily reached from the Eurostar Ski train destinations of Moutiers or Bourg-Saint-Maurice – cater for every brand of snow fiend.

1 Val Thorens

Ski trips used to be all about heavy eating and heavy drinking, but Val Thorens, the highest resort in Europe, is trying to upend tradition and forge forwards as a foodie and wellness destination. At the higher end, that means Michelin-starred chefs incorporating healthier, plant-based options into their menus, but it runs right through to cafes such as Supernova and Alpen Art, which specialise in clean, green cooking. Ski Cool, one of the oldest ski and snowboard schools in the resort, incorporates mindfulness teaching to ease anxiety during lessons. Group ski lessons start from €42 (£37) per person. Val Thorens is part of the Three Valleys ski area, which means you can ski across to Courchevel and Meribel. The snow quality is reliably great, and all levels of skier and snowboarder are well catered for.

Getting there: Alight at Moutiers, then take a bus (about 75 minutes) to Val Thorens or a taxi (about 50 minutes)

2 Sainte Foy

Skiing in Sainte Foy is like stumbling upon a secret parallel world you never knew existed – the slopes are quiet, the lift queues non-existent, and snowy forests and stunning mountain views dominate your eyeline. This small, pretty resort is not a place to come if you like to party, but it’s a great choice for families, and skiers and snowboarders who want to progress on wide, empty pistes. There are some enjoyable red runs for intermediates, while more advanced skiers and snowboarders will love the off-piste options, which include some of the best freeride terrain in the Alps. A six-day lift pass costs less than €175 (£155), about £100 less than you’d pay at Three Valleys. Of course, you get a far smaller ski area for your money, but it’s still fantastic value for a resort as good as this.

Getting there: Alight at Bourg-St-Maurice, then take a bus to Sainte Foy (about 25 minutes) or a taxi (about 15-20 minutes)

France, Savoie, Tarentaise valley, hamlet of La Rosiere, Meribel Mottaret is one of the largest ski resort village in France, in the heart of Les Trois Vallees (The Three Valleys), the biggest ski area in the world with 600km of marked trails, western part of the Vanoise Massif, view of the Mont du Vallon (2952m) and the Mont de Peclet (3012m)
La Rosière’s south-facing slopes make it a sunny destination. Photograph: JACQUES Pierre/hemis.fr/Getty Images

3 La Rosière

Last winter was a bumper season for many Alpine resorts, but it was La Rosière that recorded the highest snowfall in France. Great ski conditions aren’t a one-off here, thanks to the resort’s high altitude and its predominantly south-facing – and therefore sunny – slopes. It’s a family friendly resort and kids will enjoy skiing through the trees and tunnels on the Little Saint-Bernard Funcross adventure trail. Beginners are well served with blues and greens, while intermediate and advanced adults will love the newly opened Mont Valaisan freeride sector. It includes five new red runs and ample in-bounds ungroomed terrain, as well as amazing views of Mont Blanc. Ski across the border for authentic and good value Italian antipasti or a pizza lunch, then head back to the resort to enjoy the ice rink and a dog sledding circuit through the forest.

Getting there: Alight at Bourg-St-Maurice, then take a bus (about 45 minutes) or a taxi (about 40 minutes) to La Rosière

Deck chairs outside a mountain restaurant, Tignes, Val d Isere, Savoie department, Rhone-Alpes, FranceD20HX3 Deck chairs outside a mountain restaurant, Tignes, Val d Isere, Savoie department, Rhone-Alpes, France
Set at a high altitude, Tignes is all but guaranteed to have good snow. Photograph: Alamy Stock Photo

4 Tignes

This purpose-built resort may not be the prettiest in the French Alps, but what it lacks in cuteness it more than makes up for in convenience, taking the concept of ski-in ski-out to a whole new level. Set at a high altitude of 2,100 metres, its high-quality snow conditions are all but guaranteed; it offers fantastic skiing and snowboarding for all levels, plus access to the vast Espace Killy network with around 150 pistes. Tignes has good food options for a range of budgets, from reasonable rotisserie chicken at Les Poulettes, to Ursus, a fine-dining restaurant in an indoor forest. It also has a super-fun après-ski scene, the kind more readily associated with Austrian resorts, which is sure to get even wilder this winter with the addition of Le Cocorico, a new open-air terrace with live DJ sets in Tignes Val Claret. Thrill seekers will love the Bun J Ride, where, with the help of cords and zip-wire, you can launch yourself off a massive ski jump in complete safety.

Getting there: Alight at Bourg-St-Maurice, then take a bus (about 65 minutes) to Tignes or a taxi (about 35-50 minutes)

Fact box

5 Les Arcs

Set across five traffic-free villages, Les Arcs is part of the huge Paradiski area that links up with La Plagne. All levels of skier and snowboarder are well served here. Freestyle snowboarders will love the Apocalypse Park, while more advanced skiers and snowboarders can enjoy the 7km Aiguille Rouge run, one of the most iconic off-piste routes in Europe. The top of the Aiguille Rouge has a new glass-walled footbridge with wonderful views of the Alpine chain and Villaroger nature reserve. There’s also a new parallel slalom run, where you can film yourself racing your friends, and an airbag jump for practising those all-important freestyle moves. At the end of March, Les Arcs hosts the popular European Gay Ski Week.

Getting there: Alight at Bourg-St-Maurice, then take the funicular direct to Arc 1600 (7 minutes), or take a bus (30-50 minutes), or a taxi (20-40 minutes)

James Phillips Snowboarder at John Doe Event Les ArcsER56K7 James Phillips Snowboarder at John Doe Event Les Arcs
Freestyle snowboarders will love Les Arcs. Photograph: Alamy Stock Photo

6 Moûtiers

The historic town of Moûtiers is a good base for first-time skiers. It’s not actually a ski centre itself, but is within easy reach of Courchevel, Méribel, and Val Thorens, so those new to the sport can book a holiday safe in the knowledge that they’re not stuck up a snowy mountain if the sport isn’t for them. Visitors can also take advantage of different resorts on different days, as they all fall within the Three Valleys lift pass area. The town itself has a Museum of Popular Traditions, which shows how the rural people of the Tarentaise valley used to live, plus an ice rink and cinema. The best local swimming pool is Aqua Motion at the base of Courchevel, which also has a spa. The nearby Hautecour Arts Trail is a gentle year-round hike with outdoor sculptures, and the Vanoise national park and glacial Isère River are also great for winter hiking.

Getting there: Alight at Moûtiers

Need to know
From 23 December 2018 to 31 March 2019, direct day ski trains run from St Pancras and Ashford to the French Alps. The return legs operate from 29 December 2018 to 6 April 2019. The outbound journey leaves London at 9.45am, arriving in Moûtiers by 6.30pm that evening and Bourg-St-Maurice just after 7pm.

Night trains run from St Pancras and Ashford from 21 December 2018 to 29 March 2019. They depart from London just before 8pm arriving in Moûtiers around 5.30am and Bourg-St-Maurice just after 6.15am. Alcohol is no longer allowed on board these night services and, though the seats are roomy and comfy, it’s worth noting there are no sleeper bunks.

Travellers can bring their skis or snowboard for free on top of their regular two-bag allowance.

For more info visit eurostar.com/uk-en/train/france/ski-train

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