To say Toulouse is fond of rugby understates the matter slightly. Rugby is the defining sport of this Latin-flavoured city, second only to Ireland – or, if you ask the fans who live here, second to none.
It may be known as "la ville rose" for the pink-hued brick that catches the southern sun, but when the rugby is on, Toulouse's soul thrums resolutely red and black – the colours of Stade Toulousain, four-time winners of the Heineken Cup and hands-down the European rugby team with the greatest competition record.
Rugby has been played here since 1897, and with 171 clubs in the Midi-Pyrénées area alone, this is undoubtedly a European rugby hotspot. But sport in Toulouse is also a festive and convivial event, with the whole city coming together in an atmosphere of welcoming fun, with casual visitors welcomed like old friends.
Ever since the rugby World Cup in 2009 inspired Toulouse to throw its own week-long party, FestOval has become an annual tradition here, with concerts, photo exhibitions, food markets, rugby camps for the kids, films and all-round fun. Try your luck in the free rugby tournaments, see international pop stars perform in the main squares and be sure to enjoy the giant last-third half-time party, held on Place du Capitole. This year's FestOval runs from 27 May to 1 June.
For particular rugby-loving places to eat and drink, visit the bars on Saint-Pierre Square, the De Danu pub (at place Dupuy), the restaurant J'Go (place Victor-Hugo), the Cantina de San Subra, or the Brasserie du Stade, owned by the culinary superstar Michel Sarran, at the Ernest-Wallon stadium. Pick up a jersey at the three official boutiques of Stade Toulousain (75 rue Alsace-Lorraine, 54 rue de Rémusat or in the shadow of Ernest-Wallon stadium) or Toulouse Olympique XIII (107 avenue Frédéric-Estèbe).
The fun doesn't stop when the rugby's over, either – Toulouse's near neighbour, Spain, has passed on its taste for long festive evenings. With its large student population, Toulouse is a major venue not only for hot bands but for top artists, particularly during the International Art Festival of Toulouse (24 May-23 June).
Feel the rhythms of the Caribbean with the Rio Loco festival (12-16 June) or enjoy Tangopostale (1-7 July), a celebration of all things South American. For the glory of rugby, to let down your hair at a beach party or just to savour the pleasures of a long lunch in the summer sun, score a try with Toulouse.
To find out more about this event, visit gotofrancenow.com/midi-pyrenees-toulouse
