New discoveries are revitalizing, the wine lover’s ultimate quest. For a fresh white wine that’s ready for summer and spring, pour a glass of Torrontés, a calling card of Argentina that offers crisp acidity and remarkable food-friendliness.
“There are three kinds of Torrontés in Argentina: Torrontés from Mendoza and from San Juan are better suited for fresh consumption, while Torrontés Riojano is more extensively grown and expresses the best qualities for the elaboration of very fruity yet dry premium wines,” according to Wines of Argentina.
Julia Zuccardi is the third-generation of Familia Zuccardi and the namesake to the Zuccardi family’s Bodega Santa Julia estate. The Zuccardi family is considered a pioneer of variety cultivation in Argentina, with an “experiential area” supporting the development of 35 new varieties.
Speaking from her experience around Mendoza and Valle de Uco specifically, Julia Zuccardi shines a spotlight on Torrontés. Wrap up the education with a selection of my suggested bottles to try from Argentina and around the world.
Julia Zuccardi on Torrontés
Jill Barth: Where is the ‘homeland’ of Torrontés?
Julia Zuccardi: It’s planted along all the wine regions in Argentina from north (Salta) to south (Rio Negro) and it is an indigenous grape from Argentina.
JB: Is Torrontés genetically related to any familiar varieties?
JZ: It was discovered that Torrontés originated from a crossing of two grapes that came into Argentina more than two centuries ago. Those grapes were Criolla Chica and Moscatel de Alejandria.
JB: What is the typical profile of Torrontés?
JZ: The main aromas are geranium, citronella, orange blossom, rose and jasmine. Torrontes is a very austere white wine, thin and crispy in its modern versions. Although the Torrontés aromas anticipate a sweet wine, the flavor reveals a fresh acidity.
JB: Is Torrontés food friendly?
JZ: Torrontés is a perfect wine to be drunk as a refreshing aperitif or as a match for delicate fish and seafood flavors. Torrontes is also great for typical Argentinean empanadas and goes very well with aromatic dishes and spicy cuisine like Indian, Chinese or Thai food. Torrontés del Mercado [made by Zuccardi] shows notes of roses, orange skin, chamomile and aromatic herbs. Fresh and light with pink grapefruit, ripe pears flavors, it is a balanced wine with fine delicate flavors and aromas — a perfect match for ceviche, curry, tofu, fresh salads and fish.
JB: Are many Argentine Torrontés vineyards farmed sustainably?
JZ: Around more than 10k hectares are planted in Argentina. Mendoza is the biggest area (38.5%) followed by San Juan (26.3%) and La Rioja (20.3%). At Santa Julia, we work all our vineyards in a sustainable way. Actually, the first Santa Julia vineyard, located in Maipu, is 100% organic certificated.
Sampling Torrontés
Here are bottles of Torrontés to try — some small plots are grown around the world and this lineup illustrates Torrontés from its homeland in Argentina and a few from elsewhere.
Markus Wine Co Insieme Torrontés 2016 ($22 | Lodi, California)
Colomé Estate Torrontés 2018 ($15 | Salta, Argentina)
Zuccardi Serie A Torrontés 2017 ($15 | Salta, Argentina)
Clavo Temptress of Templeton Torrontés 2016 ($30 | Paso Robles, California)
Amalaya Esperanza Por Un Milagro White 2018 ($12 | 85% Torrontés, $15 Riesling | Salta, Argentina)
Bodega Santa Julia Torrontés del Mercado 2018 ($14 for 1 liter | Mendoza, Argentina)
Karim Mussi Abras Torrontés 2017 ($22 | Salta, Argentina)
Pisano Cisplatino Torrontés 2018 (~$12 | Progreso, Uruguay)
This interview has been edited for clarity.
