Fit comes first when it comes to tailoring – put simply, a suit needs to fit right or it just won’t look good. And no suit fits better than one that’s custom-made.
But shopping for a bespoke suit isn’t easy. First, you need to find a designer who suits not only your budget but your vibe too, and that’s before you get to choose the finer details, from the silhouette to the fabric, lining, even down to what each button and pocket should look like.
But don’t worry: that’s where I come in. As a menswear writer with years of experience in suiting guys for events, I’ve seen my fair share – and I’ve got a lot of tried-and-tested experience of what looks good, and what doesn’t. Plus, I’ve enlisted the help of Ian Fielding-Calcutt, the founder of Fielding & Nicholson, a London-based bespoke tailoring brand for his advice, too.
What are the best tailors for custom suits?
The good news is that there are plenty of brands that do them well. Savile Row, London’s home of premium tailoring, is a great starting point. It’s an entire street of tailors, most of whom have years of expertise – in fact, the oldest independent tailor on the street, Davies & Son, dates back to 1803.
With most of these stores, you’ll personally work with the tailor to design your suit from scratch. The only snag? Since they’re the top players in the game, and the suit is entirely crafted by hand to your specific measurements and preferences, they come with the price to match. Most will start at a few thousand pounds for a bespoke two-piece.
Then you’ve got some household names which do made-to-measure (suits which are cut from an existing pattern which are customised to your fit and textile choices): Hugo Boss, Paul Smith et al. Though these will be a touch more reasonably priced, they’ll still cost over a grand.
As a budget-friendly alternative, some high street stores do ‘custom’ in a slightly different way. At Moss, for example, you can take any suit from the mainline collection and choose a specific fabric, lining and buttons. They won’t be cut to your measurements exactly, but you can book an appointment with a store to have your sizes taken to make sure you’re getting the best off-the-rack fit. These will be closer to the £500 mark – and if you still want it tailored, you could take it to a seamstress afterwards.
What’s the difference between bespoke and made-to-measure?
“Made-to-measure suits are cut from pre-existing patterns and then adjusted to your measurements,” explains Fielding-Calcutt. “Think of it as a tailored template. Bespoke, on the other hand, starts from scratch. We draft an individual paper pattern just for you, offer multiple fittings (including a basted fitting where you can see the shape forming), and refine every detail by hand. It’s the difference between buying something that fits and building something that’s truly yours.”
How to choose a bespoke suit
Since everyone’s entirely different, there’s no one-size-fits-all answer. The best advice is to go with a reputable tailor and follow their lead. They’ll usually discuss your lifestyle, your wardrobe, your likes and dislikes and what you’ll need the suit for. Then, you’ll probably try a few of the designs they have in store, and they’ll guide you through the next steps.
“Take your time and trust the process,” says Fielding-Calcutt. “A bespoke suit isn’t just about looking sharp, it’s about feeling like the best version of yourself. Don’t rush the fittings, and don’t be afraid to speak up about how it feels. A good tailor will guide you, but it’s a collaboration.”
If you want to steer them in a certain direction, Pinterest is a great tool; just search and save ‘men’s suits’. Then you’ll have visual references if you find it tricky describing what you want in person.
Fielding-Calcutt’s top tips? “Start with how you want to feel in the suit. Is it powerful, relaxed or elegant? That will help shape the silhouette. British tailoring tends to be structured and sharp, Italian more relaxed and fluid. Fit is absolutely key. It should feel comfortable, not restrictive. And fabric? Choose something that suits the climate you live in and the occasion you’re dressing for. A great tailor will guide you through weights, textures, and colours. Always steer clear of trends. Classic never dates.”
And since it’s being crafted from scratch, elevate it with subtle nuances – tortoiseshell buttons or a contrast lining, for example.
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Suitsupply
Go into any Suitsupply store – there are three across London – and you’ll see the sheer amount of fits and fabrics the Italian tailoring service offers. You could buy one of the ready-made designs and have it altered to your measurements, or you can design a custom suit online.
There’s a choice of over 700 Italian fabrics as well as options of buttons, pockets, waistbands, lining and loads of other customisable details. Unlike most bespoke creations, you can expect to receive your suit in two to three weeks, which can be altered by an in-store tailor, with starting prices at £574.
You can create a ‘size passport’ with them, which is essentially a section of the website where you can store all of your sizes, meaning you’ll always have the perfect fit. If you know your measurements, enter them yourself or have them taken in person if you want the professional touch.
Buy now, Suitsupply
BOSS
In my experience, you always know where you stand with BOSS.
The German tailoring expert makes a cracking suit, whether you’re choosing one that’s pre-designed or using the made-to-measure service. You can personalise the lapels, the fit, the shoulders, all of which will be moulded to your exact measurements. The first step? Just book an in-store consultation to kick the process off.
If you’re pushed for time, you could try the RTW suiting which the in-store tailors can fit to your measurements, instead.
Buy now, BOSS
Paul Smith
Though Paul Smith now offers everything from homeware to leather accessories and womenswear, its heart lies in men’s tailoring, and so, naturally, the made-to-measure service is one of the best. You can customise the fit and fabric of the brand’s best-selling silhouettes – be it the Soho, the Mayfair, or the double-breasted.
Simply visit one of the stores on Albemarle Street or Floral Street in London for a fitting before choosing a fabric and the smaller finishings like buttons and the colour of the under-collar felt.
You can even have your signature stitched on the label in a thread colour of your choice, for tiny details that feel luxe.
Buy now, Paul Smith
Huntsman
If you’ve ever watched Kingsman, you’ll be familiar with Huntsman. The brand is the inspiration for the tailor-turned-spy in the blockbuster franchise – they even filmed inside the store itself. But big screen aside, it’s one of the best tailors on Savile Row.
Established in 1849, the heritage brand boasts the prestige to match. Though Huntsman has a great ready-to-wear collection, bespoke tailoring has always been the heart of the business.
The process starts with taking no less than 28 measurements of your body, before the brand’s team of pattern colours and tailors get to work on creating the exact suit you want – and the work can last up to 80 hours in total. You’ll have three fittings to make sure you’re completely satisfied with the end result.
Don’t have time to wait? You can buy the brand’s off-the-rack designs or even check out Kingsman, the brand inspired by the movie franchise, on Mr. Porter.
Buy now, Huntsman
Thom Sweeney
Thom Sweeney is a little newer to the scene. The brand was founded in 2007 by then colleagues Thom Whiddett and Luke Sweeney (and suddenly, the name makes sense) as a bespoke tailoring brand proper. Now, there’s lots of RTW on the virtual (and in-person) shelves, but its bespoke arm remains key.
The brand has a distinct style – modern suits that combine an English silhouette with Italian softness using lightweight chest canvases, fine shoulder pads and a slightly slimmer finish. So, this is the place to go for a jacket that’s lightweight yet elegant. It’s perfect those who’d like a European sensibility - very Mr Ripley on the Riviera.
You’ll start with a consultation to determine what type of suit is best for your proportions, then you’ll have three fittings to perfect the finish. From the first step to the last, the process usually takes around eight to ten weeks – and every single suit will be finished with the utmost quality.
If you want a flavour of what to expect, order the brand’s mainline collections to see just how premium the fabrics and craftsmanship feel.
Buy now, Thom Sweeney
Richard James
Richard James is one of the tailors credited with bringing a fresh perspective to Savile Row in the Nineties, so it makes sense that the label is known for attracting a younger clientele.
The house style is known as ‘modern classic’ – slightly longer waisted jackets cut to a slimmer fit – and its bespoke philosophy is to push classic silhouettes with bold colours and patterns so you don’t end up with a suit just like everyone else.
The first fitting involves having your measurements taken as well as choosing your cloth and style. Then, during the second ‘baste fitting’, you’ll try on the first iteration to determine the necessary adjustments, and everything should be perfect for the third try-on.
The brand’s ready-to-wear is also stocked on Mr. Porter, from suits to separates, so if you’re in a pinch and need a suit ASAP, that could be speedier route.
Buy now, Richard James
Moss
Moss offers a custom service that’s not made to measure – and you can do it nationwide, it’s not just limited to the capital city. Pretty much all of the high street store’s mainline styles can be entirely personalised.
You can change the fabrics, the canvas, the lining, the shoulder, the lapel width, the pockets, the button holes and even the stitching. Basically, all of the details can be selected, but it won’t be cut to your measurements exactly. Instead, you’ll be able to get it altered in store, which is the next best thing.
Prices start below £400, so it’s a great option if you want to look slick on a budget.
Buy now, Moss
Cad & The Dandy
Considering the fact that Cad & The Dandy already has stores in London, (on Savile Row, naturally) in Stockholm and in New York, it’s hard to believe it was founded as recently as 2008. Like the other tailors on Savile Row, focus is on craftsmanship, textiles and precision.
The house cut, which is characterised by a nipped waist and a high-rise trouser, feels very contemporary – and the jacket tends to have slimmer shoulder padding, which makes it feel a little comfier than anything super structured.
Buy now, Cad & The Dandy
Fielding & Nicholson
Unlike the other brands in this list, Fielding & Nicholson’s entire focus is bespoke and made-to-measure suits – so it makes sense why the brand is one of the best. This is British tailoring at its pinnacle: the tailor uses only UK-sourced fabrics and everything is handcrafted here, too.
Buy now, Fielding & Nicholson
