Top 10 Paris menswear shows

Dries Van Noten took us to a graffiti-covered quayside to show a collection that fused traditional Parisian tailoring with English youth culture. Think double-breasted jackets in mock tweed, super-lightweight linen mixes for summer, or trickery through prints of heavy fabrics on to paper-thin nylon macs, mixed with bleached denim and paint-splattered shirts. Van Noten is a master at mixing opposites to great effect and this collection was a runaway triumph. We loved every second. Photograph: Helen Seamons

Stepping in to the world of Lanvin is one of the delights of Paris fashion week. In glorious sunshine we wandered through the rose gardens in the Jardin des Plantes into the imposing hall of the Galerie de la Mineralogie, to take our seats along the longest runway of the week. Dizzy with the romance of the setting, we settled back to watch a collection that delivered many pluses. We liked the sports luxe feel, especially the futuristic sandals and the functional hip bags; we liked the colour palette, black through to subdued jewel tones; hell, we even liked the man-jewellery and sleeveless jackets. Is there nothing Lanvin can't sell us? In short, there was an awful lot to like here, and like it we did. Photograph: PR

Raf Simons brought the house down with a landmark collection that will mark a clear change in silhouette, hammering the final nail in the coffin of skinny jeans. The wider trouser leg that we are seeing emerge for S/S11 reached epic proportions here in huge flared trousers teamed with medical-looking open-backed tunics. If you haven't seen the drag queen documentary Paris is Burning, you might be at a loss as to the relevance of the slogan shirts. Those that had were of divided opinion: "too obvious" or "brilliant". Ditto the giant exposed zips with foot-long pulls. Admittedly a lot here is not for everyday wear, but a lot is: elegant suiting, sleeveless tops, pops of bright colour, and white as the new black. However you feel about these clothes, in a week where progression was often slow it was a breath of fresh air to see something more radical. Photograph: Helen Seamons

S/S 11 is officially the season of the tattoo. If a skin surface was bare, the chances were there was a tattoo on it: at YSL in a film about the legendary LA-based tattooist, Mark Mahoney; on rocker models at Paul Smith; and at Louis Vuitton tattoo artist Scott Campbell covered models in specially designed LV monogram transfer tattoos. These were our favourites of the week, and lent a tough beauty to a collection of cool summer separates. The same designs were also stamped on canvas and intricately laser-cut in leather to make the most coveted bags of the week - a less painful option then inking up in the name of fashion we think. Remember kids: a tattoo is for life, not just for fashion week. Photograph: Helen Seamons

YSL is a byword for elegance. For S/S11, Stefano Pilatti showed refined and often feminine tailoring. A-line shorts that created volume on hips sat alongside looser trousers. Painted checks and washed-out animal print provided contrast to the greys and taupes of the main body of the collection. The hats, reminiscent of air force forage caps, and the sunglasses, featuring monochrome checks and pin dots from the shirting, were the perfect foil to the simplistic shapes. The most interesting looks featured a cummerbund worn under the trousers and pulled high like a corset, and an obi belted over suiting, giving weight to the waisted trend we have seen this week in Paris. Photograph: PR

There were skull prints in every conceivable incarnation at Comme des Garcons, even painted on the back of the models' heads, glaring (or grinning, depending on your standpoint) back at the audience as the models retreated purposefully to backstage. Our preferred looks were broken up with black tailoring or appeared as plain white shirting from the front and revealed clever skull appliques on the reverse. The show concluded in a finale of skirts, coupled with the boy-corset seen at Jean Paul Gaultier, YSL and Walter Van Bierendonck. This trend towards womenswear for men is leaving us cold. Photograph: Helen Seamons

The genius of the folks at Maison Martin Margiela never fails to amaze, nay, astound us. This season they treated us to a life-imitating-art film. The innovative film showed models against an impromptu white sheet backdrop at various Paris locations. The soundtrack was a lone voice, instructing them to "turn to the right" and "turn around". As the film played, the same model walked centre stage and responded to the "director's" instructions in unison with their film self. An idea so brilliant in its simplicity, we wish we had thought of it. Photograph: Helen Seamons

Over at Dior Homme, Kris Van Assche seemed to be finally finding his stride. For seasons the ghost of Hedi Slimane has continued to haunt Dior Homme, and the once must-see show continually fell short of expectation. However, this collection went some way to restoring the former glory. The production added to the sense of drama: models strode out from a high circular tent of muslin, following a spiral pathway from its centre, giving the audience (who included Chanel's Karl Lagerfeld) a hint of what was coming as their silhouettes were seen through the fabric. The collection itself comprised slick black, grey and neutral tailoring that expertly draped and flowed, showing flashes of arm and exposed chest. It was both elegant and confident.
Photograph: Helen Seamons

You either like Adam Kimmel or you don't. If you don't it's a shame, because you are missing out on some of the finest clothing on sale today. There is a realness to Kimmel's clothes that he brings out in his presentations, shunning the use of models in favour of street castings. In this collection we were taken with the patterned silk lining and trim details on hoodies, tops and collars that brought a touch of the refined gentleman to the gangster. Photograph: Helen Seamons

We were delighted to see two of our favourite Brit labels, Margaret Howell and b store, in Paris. Margaret Howell is always one of our top pop-in presentations: no pomp and ceremony here, just great clothes that real men buy. (They also get top marks for the delicious spread - fashion week plays havoc with our dietary needs). Top of our must-have list is this lightweight duffel jacket, perfect for a chilly spring day, and a very fetching indigo T-shirt that is absolutely the most perfect shade of blue a T-shirt could be. Over at b store we swooned at the check shirts and baggy sweatshirts and started counting down the days until their collaboration with Liberty hits the stores in February. Photograph: Helen Seamons/PR