Top 10 Paris fashion week menswear trends for spring/summer 2013 – in pictures
You could say Dries van Noten wrote the rule book on elegant masculinity. For spring/summer 2013 he took that most macho of subject matters - the camouflage print (more on this trend later) - and digitally manipulated it, sometimes morphing it into a leopard spot, or rendering it on lighter fabrics and mixing them with open-weave knits. He layered an airy camouflage-printed jacket over a dark-green checked chiffon shirt, the see-through quality creating a moire effect and distorting the print further. His skill is in keeping everything the right side of feminine while maintaining a gentlemanly elegance. His signature tailoring was still present and a take on the parka felt suitably male. It was yet another triumphant collection for the Belgian designer. In other news: the 'socks and sandals' debate that raged in London and Milan was stopped in its tracks in Paris. Van Noten's heavy techno sports sandals with camo soles were worn barefoot, and many others brands followed suitPhotograph: Helen SeamonsIt's not that often a show makes the whole audience audibly gasp with disbelief and delight. Kenzo did just that, opening with a team of acrobats who performed handstands on the balcony handrail over the Maison du Judo before jumping on to the crash-mat podiums below. Impressive stuff. And that's before we saw the clothes. Paying homage to the famous Jungle Jap store that Kenzo opened in 1970, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim used tiger stripes and slashes, blurred leopard spots, images of tiger heads on sweatshirts and a new 'Kenzo camouflage' in bright jewel tones for their fashion safari, reimagining classics like the safari jacket for a new, younger customer. Accessories included canteen bags, crocodile-print sunglasses and tiger-stripe sneakers. This new, hip Kenzo is proving to be one to watchPhotograph: Helen SeamonsParis really put camouflage print in the spotlight. Love it or loathe it, come next spring there will be little escaping it. If fashion clichés aren't your thing, take heart in the knowledge that this time camo has had a makeover. At Dries van Noten the fabrics it came in were in stark contrast to its macho image – gauzy nylons and an overprinted lace that mimicked an army net. It was a slightly bleached-out version at Comme des Garçons and reworked with colour alterations at Kenzo. Interestingly, as with leopard print in womenswear, camo can be applied as a neutral, working with almost everything. Cult brand APC had a single camo print jacket on the rack that sat alongside the rest of the range in perfect harmonyPhotograph: PR; Helen Seamons
Carven menswear is fast building up a reputation to rival the womenswear. The men's line tripled its stockists in just one season; plans for a standalone store are under discussion. For spring/summer 2013 the muse is John F Kennedy at Hyannis Port via Cap Ferret – a dandy in the countryside. Plus points for this line are the deft use of colour and the excellent price points for a designer brand. The backpacks in collaboration with Porter were especially good. Designer Guillaume Henry continues to take this house from strength to strength – we look forward to a Paris show soonPhotograph: PR; Helen SeamonsThere must be something in the water (no pun intended): Paris seemed to be championing all the style clichés for next season. Nautical was a huge influence at Louis Vuitton. Kim Jones showed another blockbuster collection that ran the gamut from surf skins in scuba fabrics, yellow fisherman sou'westers, an anchor motif on a jumper and accessories including an anchor earring to the more tailored looks - the kind the luxury traveller on board his yacht would favour. Over at Dior Homme a series of Breton stripe knits, boat necks and cagoul parkas all in deep-sea navy with red contrast detail also nodded to a nautical feelPhotograph: Gao Jing/CorbisHothouse florals are big for next summer. At Balenciaga a distorted digital floral, seen in red on black in the show and yellow on white in the commercial collection, was inspired by avant-garde Japanese composer Ryuichi Sakamoto. British designer Christopher Kane expanded his menswear offering to a full range that included sweatpants and jeans in collaboration with J Brand. His florals were digital manipulations of roses in full bloom painted over with bold brush strokes, and came on everything from his signature T-shirts to swimwear. Raf Simons also walked a floral path with the inclusion of ditsy prints on light cotton summer coats and contrast collars on his shirting. Blooming marvellousPhotograph: PR; Helen SeamonsLuxury-goods brand Berluti delighted with another flawless presentation. A pop-up maze was erected in the Jardin du Palais-Royal – models and pairs of shoes were hidden in its turns and topiary. Once the guests had negotiated the twists of the maze they wandered through a series of "tableaux vivants", including a study with framed butterflies and bow ties, an artist's studio, a conservatory and a rose garden where models lounged nonchalantly on benches and the lawn wearing the new collection. The event concluded with an extravagant alfresco dinner; guests included Patrick Demarchelier and Ellen von UnwerthPhotograph: Helen SeamonsIf you don't fancy a metallic brogue or entering the 'with-or-without-socks' sandal debate, then the statement trainer is the alternative footwear trend choice for spring/summer 2013. The best of the season were seen at Raf Simons, worn on the catwalk with both suits and shorts, proving that a statement trainer works as well in the boardroom as it does on the beach Photograph: PRFifties American sportswear's looser cut is a sub trend for next summer. Kicking off in London at Lou Dalton, the baseball shirt, a riff on the oversized cut of a hockey jersey and the wider board short silhouette, cropped up throughout the fashion capitals. In Paris the trend was adopted by 3.1 Phillip Lim and Alexander Wang, and at Acne both the traditional baseball kit and its wide stripe (another Milan trend) were key. They also showed shorts in buttersoft leather, more suited to the bleachers than the sports field. And a dark denim pair, altogether more practical. The boxy bermuda/board has emerged as THE short shape for spring/summer 2013Photograph: PRRiccardo Tisci's Givenchy 'Cult of communion' collection combined tailoring, a retro sportswear silhouette in tops and religious iconography, all rendered in traditional couture fabrics: duchesse satin, printed jacquards and moire silk. The colour palette of black, white, mauve and pale pink was softer than past Givenchy outings, but the dark, menacing edge was still evident in nose studs worn through the bridge of the nose and sandals with heavy gold-chain detail. A double layering of prints, so that the print on a tie sat exactly in line with the print of the shirt below, created an almost 3D effect. The Madonna prints are sure to be a huge commercial successPhotograph: Helen Seamons
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