In a week where the general feeling among the press was that the collections for next season have been a bit below par, the Jil Sander show was quite literally a bright spot. Continuing with the theme of eyepopping colour from his S/S men's and women's collections, Raf Simons developed it with advanced fabrics and intricate quilting techniques that set this collection apart. There was an outdoorsy feel to the silhouette: fantastic hooded parkas and navy capes lined with flashes of colour. The layering of superfine gauge knit turtlenecks showed a smart way to wear block colour. Photograph: PR
There was not a piece in this collection that we did not like - even the orange and racing green striped 'pyjama' lounge suit somehow worked. The emphasis was on workwear and functionality: heavy footwear with thick strap details, denim boxy cut workers' jackets, boiler-suits ... These married with tone-on-tone prints in hearts and polkadots for signature Marni cottons. A tomato red mohair jumper was the must-have piece of the collection and our top tip for being on trend this winter. Marni continues to go from strength to strength each season and this was its best yet. Photograph: PR
Call us drama queens but it was the more theatrical pieces that captured our hearts and the essence of Alexander McQueen: a billowing checked cape and majestic regimental military-inspired outerwear shone out. Creative director Sarah Burton has a deft touch and the quintessential Englishness of McQueen was clear in the traditional Savile Row tailoring with eccentric twists - a slashed shoulder here and a mismatched Prince of Wales check paired with a stripe there. We also took a shine to the slicked down hair. The secret to its precision? Two layers of product. Now you know. Photograph: Helen Seamons/Observer
If there was one trend that we left Milan knowing without a shadow of a doubt will be big news come AW11/12, then it was bold colour. The week started with splashes of pillar box red at Dolce & Gabbana's Bryan Ferry-themed "Sartoria Eccentrica" show. Over at Bottega Veneta, Tomas Maier injected flashes of Technicolor in outerwear and cord trousers. Styled with classic knitwear in shades of grey, it showed that wearing colour is not as scary as it sounds. Ditto at Giorgio Armani, where eyepopping bright shirts peeped out from sombre suits, guaranteed to brighten up the dullest of offices. Photograph: PR
Best production of the week goes to Moncler Gamme Bleu for their hunt-themed show. Designer Thom Browne choose to ignore the old adage about children or animals and after a trumpet call from five huntsmen on horseback, out came the models with a beagle or two for company. Watching the models struggling to control wayward dogs for a full lap of a riding statdium was enough to distract from the biting cold of the venue. Clothing-wise, the usual Moncler outerwear met Thom Browne's unique style of tailoring and included jodphurs, riding hats and boots. Photograph: Helen Seamons/Observer
D&G is fashion Prozac. As Ducksauce's Barbra Streisand blared out, models stormed the runway in a multitude of multi-coloured Coca Cola insignia T-shirts and Mickey Mouse sweatshirts. There was no denying the youth and energy of this collection (and label). It was American college kids on spring break: puffa gilets, sweaters, carrot-leg cords, hi-tops and covetable accessories in the shape of metallic headphones made in collaboration with SkullCandy. Photograph: Helen Seamons/Observer
In these challenging fiscal times, we all want a bit more bang for our buck. It's not enough for a coat to just be a coat, it needs to have a zip-in shearling lining or a zip-off waterproof layer. At Aquascutum, new designer Jo Skyes showed a waterproof jacket with removable inner gilet lining; the entire Missoni collection was reversible knit; and we fell hard for this shearling-lined coat at Bally. Photograph: Helen Seamons/Observer
Two fabrics jumped out this week as unusual heros: mohair and lurex. While the latter, seen at Roberto Cavalli and Prada, is for the fashion brave only, we are championing the return of mohair to the gentleman's wardrobe. At Gucci, soft mohair sweaters in subtle subdued shades of plum, teal and blush gave an elegant nod to the 70s (another emerging trend) without bordering on fancy dress. Slip a mohair knit under your suit - Gucci did and it looked downright fabulous. Photograph: PR
Best newcomer award goes to Jimmy Choo for the new men's collection. Seventy-five styles in total vied for attention in the grey flannel-clad showroom, a total contrast to the subtle girlie pink of the usual Choo showroom - a deliberate move that will continue into retail. This collection will not be available in standalone Jimmy Choo stores, as the pink shop fit is deemed too feminine. Instead, snap it up online and at high-end menswear specialists to be confirmed when the books close on the buying later this month. Stylewise, think heavy biker boots, classic dress shoes, fashion hi-top trainers and the odd leopard-print loafer. Well, it is Jimmy Choo after all. Photograph: Helen Seamons/Observer
The Brits love talking about the weather. At Burberry Prorsum it was on Christopher Bailey's mind, culminating in a real shower pouring down on the catwalk from the rafters for the finale. Models sheltering under clear plastic ponchos as the rain hammered down on them. The collection's focus was on protection from the elements, and as you would expect with the title 'A coat for all seasons', this was a series of varied outerwear, from 60s camel and primary bright wool checks, through shaved fur and super puffas. Given the Arctic winters we have been experiencing, this sounds like a smart prediction. Photograph: PR
