Lau Pa Sat festival market
Lau Pa Sat is the grande dame of Singapore’s food markets, combining great local food and colonial Victorian architecture under one, octagonal roof. Little more than a timber and attap (thatch) structure back in 1825, it gained its distinctive shape some 13 years later and has been a national monument since 1973. Come for a lively lunch or visit in the evening when local friends and families gather along ‘satay street’ to enjoy the variety of flavours of satay and local beer.
Singapore food festival
For 10 days in early July, Singapore gathers to celebrate all things edible. Events take place around the city and offer the chance to try everything from traditional staples and revivals of forgotten dishes to 21st-century takes on the classics and totally new concepts from young local chefs. You may even find yourself involved in a world record – in 2015, chefs at Suvai, an Indian food event, used an 11-metre curry pot to set the record for largest cooking vessel.
Sunday brunch at the Landing Point
Want to get fancy? Singapore loves Sunday brunch and you’ll find plenty of brunch buffets offering free-flowing champagne. Head to the legendary Fullerton Bay hotel for a sumptuous high tea at the Landing Point Lounge. Feast on dainty sandwiches, freshly made cakes and, naturally, scones with cream and jam. The views of the waterfront panorama will keep you occupied as you while away a relaxing afternoon and staff will replenish your platter as often as you clear it – so come hungry.
Durian fruit in Geylang
Durian fruit ‘s pungent smell means that it’s not permitted on the local MRT (Singapore’s tube) and most hotels won’t allow them within sniffing distance. Descriptions of the flavour range from chives, custard and garlic to caramel poured into whipped cream. Make up your own mind on a visit to one of the many durian fruit stalls in the area of Geylang. You will also be able to try other juicy fruit such as rambutans, longans and mangosteens with the people who truly love it.
Fish head curry
Fish head curry is a Singaporean staple and if you ask locals where serves the best, you’ll rarely find two people who agree. It mixes the spices of a typical South Indian curry with the head of a red snapper, while some mix in tamarind paste for a tinge of sourness, others add coconut milk for a creamier texture. Washed down with a glass of ice-cold lime juice, it’s hard to beat. Join the crowds enjoying it at perennial favourite Muthu’s Curry or try a curry that blends Indian and Eurasian flavours at Casa Bom Vento.
Chinatown night market
As darkness descends, Smith Street lurches into life in a whirlwind of woks, spices and noodles. The market’s true extent takes in Pagoda Street, Trengganu Street and Sago Street as well as Smith Street and includes some 200 stalls. Many serve the classic Singapore dish of Hainanese chicken or be adventurous and order what looks and smells good.
Makansutra at Gluttons by the Bay
Next door to the Esplanade Concert Hall, this is the perfect spot for a pre- or post-performance meal and there are stonking views across to the skyscrapers that make up Singapore’s business district, winking their lights at you from across the bay. Try the nasi goreng (a dish with stir-fried rice) or a classic char kway teow (chicken noodles).
Breakfast at Ya Kun Kaya Toast
If you like your kopi (coffee) strong, head here to kick off your day. The place is a favourite with locals, seen tucking into kaya toast; a buttery, coconut jam toast dipped into runny eggs topped up with soy sauce. It can be an acquired taste, but there’s always the kopi to combat it.
Spice challenge at Lagnaa Barefoot Dining
Love Indian food? Don’t miss Singapore’s “spice challenge”. Pick your level from 1 (“Not hot – anyone can”) to “Say your prayers” (level 8) or even “We declare you king” (level 10). Be sure to check out the wall of wooden clothes pegs on which diners write their names and levels to see if you can find anyone who took it to level 10. Level 3 (“Hotter – chef can’t, can you?”) was hot enough for me.
Local food heroes
Food in Singapore is always evolving so after sampling the best of its street food head to one of its many new and fashionable restaurants. Night owls with a sweet tooth should make a visit to the 2am Dessert Bar where you can enjoy a drink and eat sweet treats until late into the night. Alternatively head to the Mount Emily hotel to eat at Wild Rocket for Mod Sin (modern Singaporean) fusion cooking or go to Keng Eng Kee for hearty seafood dishes.
